Devil's Bridge and Beyond!

[Kyle]After spending 19 days away from my beloved wife and my beloved home, mostly at work but some time with family and friends, I returned for a whirlwind tour of Antigua.

Since I was only to be home for two days and therefore the per day-off cost of a cab to the airport was rather high, Maryanne decided that it would only cost us a little extra to rent a car for the period. This would allow us a little more time together during the short break, would allow Maryanne to run some “heavy” errands, but mostly would allow us to see some of the rest of the island that we have been calling home for the last two months before it’s time to leave.

[Maryanne]This was to be Kyle's last chance to spend any real time in Antigua, and I felt we had not done it justice by sticking with the sights and sounds within easy walking (or bus) trips from English Harbour. There were plenty of other places in the tourist guides I figured we should make the effort to see. I rented a small Jeep (the cheapest vehicle) from Big's Rental (very Soprano's) and en route to the airport stopped to check out a real supermarket (up to now, the stores I've been shopping in have stocked little more than a good UK/US petrol/gas station, so the prospect of a REAL supermarket was quite exciting, the Epicurean didn't let me down)

Antigua airport (ANU) is pretty basic, a single building with a few market stand type stores and a basic restaurant. HOWEVER the airport sits in the most beautiful grounds, complete with spas, restaurants, cricket pitch, and delightful gardens - so I wiled away some time climbing and enjoying the views from the observation tower.

[Kyle]My flight landed in the afternoon and Maryanne met me at the airport ready to hit the ground running. She wanted to get as much done as we could before the sun set and we lost the light, which happens fast in the tropics. Our first stop was Devil's bridge, a natural archway made by seas pounding the cliffs on the northeast side of the island. To be honest, it didn’t seem all that impressive. The bridge itself was only maybe 12 feet above the water, but apparently Devil's bridge is the best example of a sea bridge on Antigua. The waves crashing through it, however, made for a nice spectacle with plenty of churning water being accelerated into jets of spray flying everywhere. I even got Maryanne to stand in the path of one for a picture, which ultimately failed because there was too much water and not enough Maryanne in the picture. She has lately become so laid back with her Caribbean lifestyle that she took it in great stride and shrugged it off with good humor, even though she was soaked on one side. Almost nothing phases her anymore.

Kyle positions Maryanne to pose for photo - and get wet!
Devil's bridge does have a sad history. Apparently, it was a chosen place of escaped slaves who had decided the only escape was to commit suicide. The fall itself would, of course, be survivable, but there would be no way to avoid being crushed to pieces by the churning sea on the sharp rocks within seconds. Even if the slaves had somehow learned to swim, it would not have helped.


Enjoying the view... from atop the windmill of Harmony Hall
With only about a half hour until sunset, we decided to make a run for Harmony Hall. Harmony Hall is a picturesque resort in the grounds and buildings of a converted sugar plantation that sits nestled on a cove just to the South of Devil’s Bridge. My tour guide, Maryanne, described it as a place where we would never be able to afford a meal, but thought it would be a nice place to have a glass of wine while watching the sunset. She was absolutely correct about that. The place was lovely but understated. The architecture reminded me of Santa Fe, New Mexico or Sedona, Arizona. There was a deck with table overlooking the bay and some of the smaller islands farther off and the property was dominated by the remains of an old stone windmill of the type found all over the island.

Unfortunately, we were no match for the Antiguan roads. Even though we only had to go a short distance, there was no way we could have made it in time. We got there just after dusk. We had a quick dash around in the twilight and by the time we made it over to a table, there was nothing but a black void to look into, so we decided to skip the drink and return home to a nice pasta dinner aboard Footprint.

[Maryanne]I loved Harmony Hall, it's very remote (by road) there are only two villas set aside for guests, and the restaurant is only open for lunch. The old windmill once used for crushing sugar cane is now the home to a very posh yacht club, and although open to the elements is filled with trophies and photos - pretty cool.

Due to Kyle's delayed arrival we also missed seeing from my scheduled tour the restored sugar plantation of Betty's Hope

A Study of Contrasts

[Kyle]It Looks like Maryanne has dusted off her Marine Biology degree.

Well, unlike my lovely wife, I am experiencing the full brunt of Winter in the northeast U.S. We're currently in the middle of a pretty big Winter storm. I am in Cleveland, Ohio at the moment, where it is cold and gray and gloomy and it has been snowing sideways all day. This morning I was in Manchester, New Hampshire and from my hotel room, I watched a guy spend half an hour scraping and chipping away at the snow and ice on his car so he could leave, his steamy breath being carried away by the wind. A snowplow was going back and forth trying to clear a path for the cars fishtailing their way out of the lot.

I tried to go for a run today and even though I was bundled up for it, the sidewalks hadn't been cleared and the roads were too icy to even stand on. I eventually resorted to the hotel treadmill - a tremendously more boring option.

I've got all of the photos of Maryanne and my adventures cycling through the screen saver on my laptop and that keeps me going until it's time to go home for a day. I realize that even though I am gone for long periods of time (so I can bunch up my days off), I'm lucky that I'm not commuting somewhere like Detroit.

Home Alone in Antigua

[Maryanne]I've been "home alone" now since before Christmas and although very much missing Kyle, I am relaxed and comfortable with my pace of life (It is so slow it would be hard NOT to be relaxed). Each day I do some minor chore, either grocery shopping, some boat maintenance or improvement, or simple housework; but mostly I relax, read, maybe swim, and soak up the atmosphere. The views from the boat are wonderful and the weather great... I know, tough life eh?


Views From Footprint as I sit writing this blog - How could I not be relaxed?

For several days over the new year, the nearby island Montserrat was venting gas and ash (as it often does), along with fresh lava extrusion and pyroclastic flows. The atmospheric and wind conditions were such that it dumped plenty of ash on us here in Antigua. I was cleaning off the solar panel several times a day, and it made me reflect on the life of those in Montserrat who must deal with this daily (not to mention the devastating eruption of 1995 where they lost half the island and much of the population were forced to flee). The volcano there had been previously dormant, and there are now regular eruptions, and another big one expected as Soufriere's dome continues to bulge ominously. Luckily they have a good observatory monitoring things to give advance notification for any future "big" explosion http://www.mvo.ms/.

The ash fall here in Antigua has stopped (no doubt it is falling elsewhere), I finally scrubbed down the decks (with seawater), and then yesterday relaxed with a swim/snorkel over to the Pillars of Hercules (a geological feature of eroded sandstone cliffs on east side of the Entrance to English Harbour - and if you hadn't guessed, looking like huge stone pillars). This can be seen best from the sea, and is a common to see the local dive boats and snorkel tours drop off tourists here. It's amazing how much clearer the water becomes as you head off out the bay. Underwater, off the pillars, there are HUGE chunks of rock presumably fallen from the sandstone cliffs above ages ago variously worn with the action of the waves (there is a 300+ year old huge ancient anchor on top of it all, so much of the rock fall must be older), many of the underwater rocks look like cow pats as the layers of sandstone have worn away at different degrees, more at the top. The fish are huge and plentiful, and local fishermen are regularly seen fishing with nets.

Footprint is on the Northern end of Freeman's bay, so I snorkeled in shore and along the coast line - I was AMAZED to find a huge, black, long-spined sea urchin by small rocks very close to the beach - a warning not to be walking in waist deep water around that area.. Yikes. On the way back from the pillars I cut across the bay directly back to Footprint, but kept a good eye out for speeding motor dinghies. On both to and from the Pillars, there were often sudden water temperature changes which I would normally associate with a stream, but I couldn't find the cause.
Pillars of Hercules
I also saw plenty of beautiful worms.. At least I think this is what they are - I don't have a sea shore guide for this area, so I can only compare with British, N. American, and my memory of the Red Sea species (It looks like a Peacock worm or a Feather Duster Worm). Worms generally need a soft sediment to live in, but some can make a safe home on solid rock. Unless you had studied seawater species you would not guess that these were worms at all. The main body of sea worms often lives below the surface or in a protective sheath, while it catches its food with a vast net/fan of fine tentacles, as the water flows by. The tentacles look beautiful, like a flower, and can quickly be pulled back in to its straw tube like sheath. The Sheath is built by the worm, either from protein deposits (like our fingernails) or with scraps of mud, sand or shell; those worms without such a sheath simply have their body buried in the sand/silt/mud. In this area the fans of the worm were much larger than I have seen elsewhere (at least a foot across). I didn't think of it until later, but it is possible they are some kind of feather star (from the starfish family), although I've never seen one with so dense a set of tentacles! I wish I had taken a better look - I have seen NO starfish of any kind and have commented several times how unusual I found this on our previous snorkeling trips. I'm definitely sticking (for now) with the identification of a worm, but I'll take a better look if I get that far out again. The easiest identification will be if they retract when I get close.

The water (in the bay) is terribly clouded this last few days, and you can focus on the planktonic life just drifting by your eyes (well, goggles) as you swim - and all that life will explain how come I needed to clean off the dinghy YET AGAIN of a forest of bottom growth.

No matter how relaxed I am, I'm looking forward to having Kyle home on Sunday (even though it is barely for one full day and 2 half days), and I've planned an extensive tour of the island together to ensure we don't miss anything that Antigua has to offer.

Quiet and Peacful for New Year

[Maryanne]I've never been much of a party goer and much prefer small groups to huge crowds. This year had Kyle busy at work in the USA for both Christmas and New Year, while I stayed on in Antigua. I was quite insular (anti-social) and spent most of my time pampering to my own needs: reading, watching DVDs, and eventually moved on to some chores that I've been meaning to do (sewing projects for the most part).

I know that sounds terribly dull, what can I say? I can be very dull sometimes; but I still have a huge smile on my face and life is good. I did what I wanted with my time over Christmas and New Year. Of course I would have rather Kyle and I could share the holidays, but with his job this is often just not feasible, and we both understand that; it makes the time we do get together all the more precious.

Christmas holds less and less value as I get older, but New year is always a good time to reflect on the year passed, and the year to come. 2008 was a good year for Kyle and Me; I finally got to retire, and we began our full time cruising lifestyle which we had worked and planned so hard for. 2009 should (fingers crossed) see us travel more in the Caribbean, and hopefully over to Europe on Footprint, and if all goes well we'll also take a few side trips (without Footprint) to Africa, the USA and Australia - so NOTHING to complain about here. We are two happy, smug sailors.

I hope you each got to do what you wanted over the holidays - Happy 2009 to you all.

Return to Antigua

[Kyle]We got up with the sun and as we prepared Footprint to leave Deshaies we noticed all the other boats in the anchorage leaving rapidly ahead of us. Despite our early start, our check lists delayed us to being at least the 5th boat out (The Club Med-2 boat having left around midnight well before us).

We hoisted the sails in a brisk NE wind. We sailed as close to the wind as we could, but found ourselves steering about 30° to the west of our course to English Harbour. This path took us almost directly towards Montserrat which has always been a curiosity for us, looming on the horizon. The island is dominated by its volcano Soufriere, (all volcanoes in the Caribbean seemed to be named Soufriere), which so violently and devastatingly erupted in 1995 and is still very much active.

Montserrat Volcanic evidence and current activity
On this particular day (which we later learned was unusual) the volcano was emitting plumes of ash and hot gas high into the atmosphere. The visibility was great and we managed to get some good shots from fairly close (well, close enough for our comfort) before the wind died and we were forced to motor (MOTOR!, in the TRADE WINDS! Ugh!) to Antigua;

When we got back to English Harbor, we had hoped to find a better spot in the anchorage than the one we had left (nearer to row, better views, more wind for the generator), but alas, in the darkness we were unable to do so. We found ourselves in our good old spot. The next morning as we were preparing to clear customs, we decided to have a second look around (maybe someone had left?) and managed to find a pretty spot in Freeman bay, 200' from the beach (thanks to our shallow draft); still a fair way row into English Harbour dinghy dock, but great views (beach lined with palm trees) and plenty of wind for our power needs.
Footprint Anchored in Freeman Bay, English Harbour, Antigua
We are enjoying our view, and already other cruisers have waved at us!


[Maryanne]Hey - Kyle forgot to mention we caught a fish... OK, it did get away, but this is still progress! This fish goes by several names: Dorado, Mahimahi, or Dolphin fish.. too bad he got away.

Quest for a hot bath

[Kyle]The next day (Thursday) we only had one thing on our agenda (aside from sailing back to Deshaies): Take a bath!

Now of course we don't have a bath tub aboard, so we were looking for one ashore. Not just any bath tub, but a special bath tub. Since we are adventurers, and my middle name begins with "D", we decided we had to have a bath in water heated by ...... a volcano. I had thought that I had anchored close by the night before, but on closer examination, it turned out the bath in question was a couple of miles south, so we pulled up our anchor and headed south. With no good coordinates for our destination, we had to search for likely targets using the binoculars. Having found our goal, we anchored in a tiny cove off a beach full of people. The building did not look too appealing, to be honest, but since we'd gone to all this trouble we were not going to turn around now. The beach turned out to be the site of a jet ski school, and the students seemed to be taking their practical exams that day. We pulled the dinghy up on the beach (a conglomeration of stones and black sand - just the right size to go through the holes in sandals, but too large to be comfortable walking on) and made our way the tub.

Bath House - not too appealing
In an open air concrete shelter, The "tub" itself was a rectangular pool covered in mosaic tiles (about 8'x 4' and 3' deep), filled with fresh water at the perfect temperature. Water constantly flowed from a nearby hot spring into the tub, which then overflowed into a foot pool before overflowing into the sea. Alongside was an area where you can stand, soap up, and dump jugs of warm water over your head to rinse off (so as not to pollute the main tub with soapy water). What a luxury to be able to use gallons of hot water.

Clean and Happy - taking a HOT bath with Footprint in the background!
Feeling very refreshed (and clean) we returned to Footprint, and secured the dinghy for the short, brisk sail back to Deshaies. We were surprised to find when we got there, outside the harbor was anchored and enormous (5-masted) cruise ship (Club Med-2) that was busily shuttling passengers back and forth into town. We had not planned on going ashore, but seeing this we were very pleased not to have to share the town with a ship load of people - it would certainly have been quite a different place so full. I was happy to watch the sun set from Footprint, with memories of Guadeloupe drifting through my head.

Good enough for Jacque?

[Kyle]Today (17th December), I forced Maryanne to get up really early so we could go to the boulangerie/pâtisserie Amandine in Deshaies (remember pronounced De-hay) for breakfast when they opened at 6:30. What a marvelous experience. Again we were met with friendly Bonjour(s) by everyone at the place where the whole town seems to stop for breakfast (or at least an early morning coffee). We got a pastry each, some strong coffee, and two baguettes for around €6 ($9US), and sat and watched the town wake up. I'd like to say the whole town was filled with people in berets wearing striped shirts and cycling around with baguettes under their arms - but that was not the case. In spite of that, the village did have a very Gallic countryside feel to it. Particularly entertaining was the local produce stand owner, who repeatedly walked by, each time with a different tray of produce to stock his stall; when we finally did get up to leave we noticed he'd finally found a cart to load and make fewer trips. Maryanne said something to him in French and they both had a good laugh.

Finishing our breakfast later than we had intended we decided to wait for the grocery store to open and purchase some cheese and other goodies to go with our baguette for a later lunch. There was a moment of embarrassment and confusion when at the check out I learned that all fruits and vegetables have to be weighed and priced separately (at the other end of the store) before bringing them to the cash register. She sent me off with some French instructions, and quickly rescued me wandering the store, took my limes to the other end of the store and weighed and priced them for me, returning to find the pineapple in my basket and repeating the whole process. Oops.

Maryanne and I also had a little disagreement about rum; she decided it would be nice to have some aboard in order to make Ti punch and was eying the 1L bottles. I insisted that this was WAY too much and we'd never get through it, and talked her down to a 1/2 L bottle. Finally provisioned, we returned to Footprint in order to head for our next destination: Îlet à Goyave (Pigeon Island) - walking back to the boat we each broke off a chunk (or few) of a baguette for a nibble - MAN that is GOOD bread!

The journey down the coast was stunning, picture perfect little villages scattered on lush, green, steep mountain slopes. It was so beautiful, that I'd take a picture of some scene, we'd sail another 100 feet, something else would come into view, and I'd feel the need to take another (thank goodness for digital photography). After just a couple of hours, we arrived at Îlet à Goyave which is special as it is an island in the Jacques Cousteau nature preserve, a place Jacques ranked in his top 10 places to dive in the world.

We circled the island and picked up one of the pleasure boat moorings and prepared for Maryanne's first real dive since she gave up her life in Scotland to spend it with me (Maryanne is a qualified SCUBA instructor and used to dive at least weekly before I met her, since he moved to the USA, 6 years ago, her only 2 dives have been to recover items dropped overboard -and not in pretty waters!). While she readied herself and her equipment, I donned my snorkel gear and jumped in to survey the area and check the mooring. The island in the reserve has lots of steep rock faces and cliffs, and an impressive variety of fish species. The fish, being protected, seem totally unafraid of humans and did not dash off as I approached - I was so excited for Maryanne to see it all. When she finally got her dive gear on and tested, and jumped into the water, I must have been as excited as she was to see her finally diving again, knowing this was something she loved to do, and put on hold for me. After a brief pause on the surface to double check all the equipment was working well, she descended to the bottom below to a depth of about 45'. I know I should have been looking at all the fish and such, but I was mostly following along overhead making sure she was OK, and watching her enjoy herself. I did manage a couple of times to dive down to where she was and say hi, but of course I could only stay for a few seconds before returning to the surface for air. We traversed about half way around the small island, before Maryanne turned around and began to slowly ascend the wall, eventually returning to the boat, excited and very happy.


We had a lunch of the remaining French bread and cheese, and then snorkeled around the other side of the island together, the topography and variety of marine life on the southern side seemed even more stunning; Maryanne won the prize for the day for spotting (and swimming with for some time) a sea turtle (although I got a great picture of the turtle, by the time Maryanne was swimming with it, I was too far away to get a good picture, alas). Noticing the sun dipping in the sky we returned to Footprint, dropped our mooring and took the short hop to the better protected anchorage of the mainland at Malendure. Still full from our great lunch we had a light snack and Maryanne decided to try her hand at making Ti Punch. This we enjoyed (especially me) complete with the gasping, as the sun set behind Îlet à Goyave. Again I could not help but gush on about how fortunate I felt and how happy I was to be there. We really do get to see some amazing things.

Nothing against Antigua, but I fell in love instantly with Guadeloupe, it is much more what I pictured a Caribbean island to be; stunningly beautiful, lush, and filled with warm, friendly people. I was really not looking forward to leaving.

Afterward, Maryanne informed me that we had already blasted through 1/2 the new bottle of rum - who would have thought it? (I guess Maryanne was right all along - I should have learned by now!).

Jardin Botanique

[Kyle]Fully recovered from yesterday's scramble up the Deshaies river, our next tourist goal was the Botanical Gardens, just a mile outside of Deshaies (up another steep hill). Walking up the hill we worried several times that trucks barreling down might not be able to brake and swerve to avoid hitting us (even though there was a wide walking area, it was on the same level as the road and the vehicles were making use of it on the bends).

The gardens (a hefty €14 each to enter) was well worth the price of admission. Everything was laid out beautifully, well marked with signs (in French), there were so many picturesque views, waterfalls, ponds, and sweeping vistas of the Caribbean Sea below. Flamingos, lorikeets, 100's of orchids, cactii, plenty of all sorts! We had lunch with a gorgeous view over the gardens and beyond into the ocean, prepared and served by a woman who had so much fun trying to understand our French and practice her English on us, that even when we were done with our food, she continued to call our food order number on the PA in both English and French (complete with giggles).

Kyle looooves Parrots!
The highlight of the gardens though, for me, was definitely the parrots, each pair housed in cute, Caribbean style parrot houses. I have owned several parrots in the past, and absolutely adore them, jumping at any opportunity to spend time with one. I was pleased to see that they had big cages, with lots to do, and were being fed a good diet (not always the case). I befriended one lonely parrot (the only one that was not part of a pair). He had been high up in a tree, driving people off feigning attacks at passers by, and I decided to go and say Hi! Since I understand parrot behaviour fairly well, and how to behave around them so they don't get nervous, he quickly came to like and trust me. Soon, he was crawling towards me and away from other visitors. After some time, when Maryanne and I moved on to other areas of the garden, he seemed quite upset I was leaving. When Maryanne reminded me that the garden was still open for several hours, there was no need not to return to the parrots - naturally I jumped. By then, the place was emptying out (never very crowded) so I had lots of one on one time to spend with my new buddy. He even allowed me to scratch and preen him (although I was probably NOT supposed to do that, I could not resist).

Afterward, feeling happy, we tried desperately to keep from falling down the hill (I would not say walked). On the walk back we passed by Parc Batterie, where we had hoped to spend the evening at a restaurant with great views from the south side of Deshhaies' cove, but found it under renovation. We did get to see the cannons at the park, and then went back into Deshaies and found a French/Creole/Italian restaurant with a table on a balcony directly over the surf. Everyone we met was all smiles and greetings, we experienced none of the irritation we expected from our poor French. We certainly fell in love with Deshaies.

My Birthday dinner was really nice, the exchange rate killed us, but it was worth it. While at dinner I got a chance to try a Ti Punch ubiquitous on menus out here. Most drinks went for between €6-€11, Ti Punch is more like €2.50-€3.50. I had assumed this meant that what I would get was some small. weak, watered down drink (usually about my speed). I was wrong; made from the local white rum, this is a little drink with a BIG kick. Most Caribbean rums we have found are 40% alcohol, Guadeloupe rum is (at least) 50%, the drink consists of the rum, a little sugar (or syrup), a crushed lime segment, and maybe an ice cube. Try as I might, I could not help but gasp audibly at every sip as the strength of the alcohol hit my throat - much to Maryanne's amusement. We lingered for a while at the restaurant, enjoying the night air and the sight of Footprint anchored right beside us, and I felt so lucky to be in this special place. After a while, feeling warm from a nice day (and possibly the Ti Punch) we rowed back to our boat, I opened my birthday presents and fell asleep watching the stars through the open hatch.

Deshaies River Scramble

Scenes from Deshaies
[Kyle]Our first order of business was to clear customs; all sources of information alerted us to the fact that customs in Deshaies was very unreliable, and we were not expecting to find anyone in the customs office. We crossed our fingers, collected up our paperwork and headed up an unbelievably steep hill towards the customs office. To our great relief (and surprise) Monday was the one day of the week they were open all day (all other weekdays they were only open for 1 hour, and the hour varied each day). In spite of our horrible French, the Port captain and his assistant were all smiles, friendly and helpful. We even got pre-cleared out of the country so we would not have to return to customs when we headed back for Antigua – a nice bonus.

We rowed back to the boat to secure our paperwork and hoist the French flag (indicating we had been cleared in). We returned back to the charming village of Deshaies where we planned a walk along the Deshaies river which our guidebook described as a shady scramble.

Unlike Antigua, which is covered mostly with low scrub, Guadeloupe is very thickly covered with big tropical plants and has much more the feel of a tropical jungle so we were looking forward to diving into that headfirst.

We followed a concrete road along the river side, then a forest trail, until that detoured away from the river. From here, scratching our heads, we double checked our guidebook and discovered we should be IN the river, not on the path alongside the river. The guide specifically said hopping from rock to rock up the river. SO… we scrambled back down the hill, and proceeded to leap from rock to rock up the river. The river, while not large, was fairly steep, had some fast running areas, this was not an easy stepping stone activity, but rather a leap from one slippery rock to another, and in some cases a bit closer to rock climbing. There were many places where a missed step would have meant a broken ankle/leg and no easy access to rescue – we were being very careful – the further we went the more we felt we should keep going to the end (where the route back was a safe and gentle stroll on a paved road).

In spite of the shade, it was very hot and we were tired and sore from the hard effort of working our way up the river. After 3 hours (guidebook indicated 2), we reached the place where the river intersected a road (we could easily have missed it). Our guidebook spurred us on, only another 15 minutes up the river we were promised a waterfall from a cave into a pool where we could swim and cool down – so on we went – through mud, under tree trunks and over boulders the size of cars. The river was becoming increasingly difficult to navigate, and we were also getting tired, after half an hour of this and several episodes of “let me just go ahead and see if it is around the next corner” as Maryanne lagged behind, I came around a final corner and saw another half mile of boulders edged on each side by steep, impassable cliffs – that was IT, we were DONE with this walk! Maryanne did not put up a fight.

We turned back and made our way back to where the road came close the river. By then I had become so tired from the days scrambling that I was becoming unsteady and had several scary falls into the river; I was glad to get to a nice flat paved road. Finally joining the road, we started our walk back into the town. Two things were immediately evident about the roads.

• Unlike Antigua and Barbuda, the roads (and all the other infrastructure) here are in very good shape - European standards!
• Apparently because it does not snow, the roads simply go straight up or down whatever hill (or mountain) they need to traverse. I have never seen hills so steep anywhere - San Francisco has nothing on these hills. They were so steep it would have been impossible to ride a bicycle up, and suicidal to ride one down. I was amazed that the small French cars could handle the grade.

Anyway, we finally made it back into the village of Deshaies. Since it was my birthday, we had originally intended to get some food at one of the many restaurants overlooking the bay, but we were tired, sweaty and in my case wet - so we returned to the boat (intending to change). Once we got back to the boat, we collapsed, gravity took over and we did not leave again that day. We decided that my birthday observed would be the next day instead!

[Maryanne]Deshaies is a tiny fishing village, but it is also one of the few customs offices in Guadeloupe (the only one on the NW coast) - a point of entrance and exit for passing pleasure boats. It is really a 2 street town, with the river (more like a stream) and a harbour full of local, colorful, fishing boats, with a few dive boats for the occassional tourists. It has a laid back atmosphere, everyone passing you says "bonjour". The beach is a very thin line of large cobbles (very few patches of sand). There has recently been some severe storm damage to many of the buildings that sit alongside the bay. The town dock was gone, a powerboat was in up in the patio/veranda of one home, and a few buildings had whole walls missing. One church, one butchers, one pharmacy (no razors!), however, there were many more restaurants than I would have expected, and a couple of tourist shops, a very small town. It was quick and easy to get to know your way around. We liked it.

La France - Guadeloupe

[Kyle]After spending a couple of weeks at a work, in the winter wasteland that is the NE USA currently, I arrived home, cleared customs, took a cab home from the airport where Maryanne met me to clear customs again (this time to clear us and the boat out of Antigua). I had been officially back in the country for about 2 hours. The next morning we got up very early with the intent of leaving at sunrise for the sail to Guadeloupe. We were low on water and decided it would be more sensible if we refilled in Antigua – we weren’t sure where we would be able to fill in Guadeloupe (and it turned out it would not have been possible). So we delayed our start by a few hours. We had breakfast at the fuel/water dock while we were waiting for them to open. (We purchase water by the gallon – so we had to wait for the store/fuel dock to open). Maryanne “stole” a shower and came back to report it was not worth stealing.

[Maryanne] Since we ended up hanging out at the dock for 2 hours, I decided I’d try and scrub up, and took a shower. Technically the showers were only open for those boats paying for dockage (not those getting fuel and water) – but hey, it was open! The shower turned out to be a cold trickle of water with a non-draining shower pan. I tried to fix the draining problem and I wish I’d never seen what I found when I lifted the floor plan! Yuk!

[Kyle]Once we did leave Antigua, we had a really great, fast, broad reach in strong trade winds to Deshaies (pronounced De-Hay), on the NW corner of Guadeloupe. We arrived mid afternoon but waited until the following day to clear customs (they were not open on the day we arrived). We had a swim in the picturesque little fishing village's bay and soaked up the atmosphere from the boat. The buildings were colorfully painted, and nestled in lush green (very big) hills. About half the boats in the anchorage were also flying their “Q” flags (waiting for customs clearance) so we were not alone in waiting.

Guadeloupe is administered as a region of France; In much the same way Puerto Rico is part of the USA, or the Falkland Islands is part of Britain. The French government treats it as if it was within the mainland of France – no different. The cars have European Union (EU) number plates attached; the Euro is the official currency; entry into France for the boat is equivalent to an entry into the EU and if we stayed too long we would have to pay VAT. But most of all, being in the villages of Guadeloupe, we were to find, feels just like being in any other small French village – Baguettes and all!

Loafing in Antigua

[Maryanne]Shhh... Don't tell Kyle, but while he has been busy working hard and earning a living, I've been pretty lazy and loafing around. Apart from my earlier trip to St. John's, I have read 5 books while he has been away, and done a little more exploring.


Pirates of the Caribbean - Stage
Firstly the local (one show a year) Amateur Dramatics society (Fincham's Follies) put on a one night only show - a spoof "Pirates of the Caribbean"; along with spots of local talent. It was lighthearted fun, an outdoor (sit on the grass and watch) production complete with failing lights, occasional feedback from the sound system, and some very amateur acting - great fun, despite the obvious technical issues. All proceeds went to charity and at the interval they auctioned the amazing backdrop (painted by 3 talented folks) and got $1850 US for it - WOW!

I also took a tour to the Dow Hill Interpretation Center over by Shirley Heights. My guide book reports the multi-media show as "missable", but I had plenty of time and thought I'd give it a go. Unfortunately the show was not working, but I was glad I made the trip as the views were great, and hey, I needed the exercise! Making use of yet more colonial military buildings, and with great views of English Harbour, it was worth it, even without the official show.

Dow Hill Interpretation Center
On the way I came across this peculiar plant. At first I thought it odd to find a Scottish thistle (I hadn't noticed any thistles here at all so far) but then I realized the flower belonged to the plant, and I was enthralled - it seemed so out of place - what is it? I just call it a tulip thistle, it is so pretty. If you know what it is, please do tell me!


I took an unauthorized route to the Interpretation Center (so I didn't have to row/walk so far). This took me into the (closed to the public) grounds of Clarence House. There is some confusion about when it was built: Some say it was built in 1787 for Prince William when he was based here (later to become King William IV); others that it was built around 1805 for the dockyard commissioner. Until very recently it has been the country residence of the governor-general. In 1960, Princess Margaret spent some time here on her honeymoon. It was obviously a very grand residence, at least until recently as in September of 1998 two hurricanes severely damaged the roof and other parts of the building. The house and grounds appear now to be overgrown and abandoned. All the inside is gutted with no floors in place. Although renovation work clearly started, it looks as though nothing has progressed for several years. It was a prefect place for me to sit and rest, I could enjoy the views of English Harbor while reading a book sat in the window of the top floor in the shade of the veranda, with a breeze - all to myself - Not a bad way to spend an hour.

Clarence House

Of course I have done a few chores, but nothing too strenuous (well the one that was too strenuous I gave up on). I suddenly realized that not only is it December, but Christmas is right around the corner, I had to rush to turn out Christmas cards and get them mailed so they might (possibly) arrive on time. Kyle returns to the boat on Saturday, and already has a full schedule planned, I don't know if I'll be able to keep up with him based on my current pace of life. Ahh, but I'll try.

My life

[Kyle]After a trip in which I got to spend the night in the snow in Detroit (Ooooh, Detroit!) and Moncton, New Brunswick, I did get to go to the much warmer climate of Arizona for one day. Mom had apparently been waiting for me. There was potato soup, orange slices, fudge, oreos, cake, nuts and a big ol' bottle of tabasco. She was actually pretty good when I swore up and down that I could not eat all of that. I was so full by lunch that I had to beg her not to make anything for dinner, which she mercifully didn't. I'll go back in a couple of days and finish everything off.

For now I'm in Houston for a twice yearly simulator ride. The instructor tries to kill us, we try not to let him get away with it. It takes about six hours for the two of us (Captain and First Officer). It is not fun. I really should be trying to get some sleep.