High Sierra Trail – Day 7 (Sunday)

[Maryanne]The plan for today was to hike from Crabtree meadow up to Mile 206.2 on the John Muir trail (just above Guitar Lake). Guitar Lake is the traditional camp site for those planning to summit Mount Whitney, Kyle decided to go a little higher so we’d be closer, and since there was water there, it made little difference (it was another short distance day planned).

The night had been cold again, and we saw condensation on the inside of the rain fly, and we are well bundled (most likely at the limits of our sleeping bags). While hiking though, we were back to shorts and t-shirt. We passed the beautiful Timberline Lake, and eventually climbed above all the trees, views continued to impress. We stopped at Guitar lake for a snack, and enjoyed watching the marmots and squirrels.

Another short and beautiful day of hiking - finally above the tree line (aside from the odd straggler)

Once we reached the planned camp site, we agreed to climb a bit further, to the next ledge, and from there Kyle went on a scouting mission for the ideal camping spot. This led us to find water higher still and a good site for the tent – so we camped at 12,000’. We set up the chairs and enjoyed the sun for a while, fetched and filtered water, and then just took a walk about at the same elevation, around the rocky terrain and between tarns.

In the absence of trees, Kyle set up a novel tripod to help with the water filtering.

Not bad!

Later, at camp, the skies darkened and eventually it started to rain heavily. We retreated to our tent for a couple of hours nap. Another camper arrived and setup camp, an older, solo hiker (Evan) who was busy bagging the California 14ers (all the mountains over 14,000’). He was very considerate and first asked if we minded him camping in our area (ha, it wasn’t ‘ours’), and even when we assured him it was fine, he found a spot out of site of us, giving us all privacy.

We spent the evening pondering our achievements so far, while being fully aware that tomorrow we planned the big ascent up to Mount Whitney.

High Sierra Trail – Day 6 (Saturday)

[Maryanne]Starting from Wallace creek, we hiked today to upper Crabtree meadows (from 10,400 to 10,600’). The day started with a few steep 30 minute climbs followed by dips down. The day felt easy – we only travelled 4.3 miles, and we were done by 11am (most of the day spent dawdling and chatting with other campers). Here Julio and Greg would pass us and continue on, so be bid farewell to our fellow hikers.

We are definitely finding the hiking easier as the trip proceeds - the views remain splendid

Crabtree meadows is a huge camp site, and we were amazed (given our early arrival) to find a tent already setup in the prime spot for the views. Later in the afternoon the tent’s owner arrived, indicating that he’d just done a day hike up Mount Whitney (and back, almost 15 miles round trip of steep climb on rocky trails, with little more than a bottle of water and some granola bars – in seven hours). Since we were going to take 2 days to do as much, we were quite taken by the young man’s stamina. Now, rather than rest, he was off to hike (with his tent and belongings) in the other direction and make it to yet another camp site (Wallace Creek) before dark. We were feeling our age (but enjoying our rest too much to care).

Once he moved on, we moved our tent into the now open spot with views of Mount Whitney, so we could ponder our future. Mt Whitney is bookended with rocky mountains, and below that we had views of a sequoia forest, the meadow makes a big clearing below that and a stream passes through that – quite beautiful. Today the sky was filled with fluffy clouds, which occasionally puts us in a shadow and has us reaching for our jackets.

Other hikers passed, one indicated that she had acquired a walk up permit and shipped her resupply provisions that same afternoon.

With plenty of time we took a stroll around the meadow. The ranger station here doubles as a shelter for the snow surveyors that visit in winter; their efforts and measurements are important for predicting the California water supply levels expected for the coming year. The campsite also had signs for a toilet, which (even following the signs) we struggled to find. Eventually we found it, and discovered it so basic and unpleasant, agreed we’d simply disregard it and manage without. (The privacy was close to non existent and the flies were abundant!).

Exploring Crabtree Meadow - we eventually found the toilet (but wish we hadn't)

Kyle found the ranger and got a weather report for Mount Whitney. (looking good). Weather wise we’ve been amazingly lucky on the hike so far, only 6 drops of rain (per Kyle), and mostly blue skies and reasonable temperatures.

Camping with another beautiful view - this time we can see Mount Whitney

High Sierra Trail – Day 5 (Friday)

[Maryanne]Starting in Kern Valley, just past Whitney Creek at around 8,000’, heading for Wallace Creek on the John Muir Trail (JMT) at 10,400’ (i.e. a lot of climbing).

The day started very cold, and Kyle disturbed a deer as he went about his morning ablutions. Once the sun rose it became instantly HOT. Finally the map mileage matches with the trail signage, so we were hopeful that our planned hike distance would turn out to be accurate.

The day’s hike was practically all up hill, and while still tough, it was also easier; we suspected we were feeling fitter, and more acclimated (and of course our packs are slowly getting lighter). Since the following days will see us increasing in altitude, we can’t yet get too smug, but are feeling much more confident of our abilities than those first few days. Our last day on the trail coincides with my 50th birthday and Kyle keeps promising (Joking) that it will be all downhill on my birthday (funny man).

Late on the hike yesterday we passed a solo young woman going in the opposite direction. She said she was studying frogs and was hiking up to Sky Parlor Meadow (by Moraine Lake) to collect samples. We met her just as we’d reached the bottom of that steep descent and didn’t envy her one bit the fact that she was planning to climb that and camp overnight in the Meadow. Today we were amazed when she passed us at a fair pace. Not only had she hiked up, done research, and camped overnight, she had also hiked down that steep terrain, along the valley, and was now passing us, as we climbed. She was sprightly and nimble as if the hike was an easy stroll through the supermarket. Yay girl science!!!

The hike today gave beautiful views again, and with our (imagined?) fitness improvement it even felt quite pleasant. The sequoias seem particularly grand (but stunted due to the altitude/conditions), and we imagined they were planted just for our pleasure.

Today we camped just as the High Sierra trail merges with the JMT. We arrived early (about 1pm) as it was a planned half day – so we set up tent in a prime spot and relaxed. We did laundry to attempt to remove some of the dust from our clothing, and enjoyed laughing at the antics of the squirrels as they scampered about camp. The sun shone and other hikers lunched and moved on. The camp chairs were put to good use.

Laundry with entertainment

Initially sat with our chairs in the sun, it soon became too hot. Rather than keep moving the chair, I simply pulled out my umbrella and used it as a parasol. This had Kyle chuckling and amazed and incredulous that I’d found space to pack such a luxury extra (in fairness, it was tiny and only a couple of ounces).

By late afternoon there were at least 9 other camp sites set up; now we are on the JMT, things are getting busier. Eventually Julio and Greg also joined us, but reported that Greg had taken a nasty fall onto his back on a river crossing and had to spend some time to recover and dry out his wet boots and socks. Yikes, luckily he was only bruised. The thought of a more serious injury out here is quite unnerving, and this had been a close call. We made a note to ourselves to continue to be cautious and slow and make good use of our hiking poles and hope for a bit of luck too.

The hikers we saw the most of - Greg and Julio became wonderful trail friends

High Sierra Trail – Day 4 (Thursday)

[Maryanne]Waking at Moraine Lake, the plan was to hike along the Kern Valley, towards Whitney Creek (about 10.5 miles). The plan was to reduce the mileage daily, making for shorter days as we progressed. The hike started at 9,300’ with a short climb to get out of the lake basin and then nearly all descent. Much of the descent was very steep, with switchbacks down into the valley to about 6,700’.

Breakfast with a view (while filtering water) - at Moraine Lake

Early in the day's hike we passed Junction meadow where deer were grazing. We still have seen no bears (despite the need to keep food in special bear proof canisters and away from the tent at night)

Along with the views, we see plenty of wildlife as we hike, and even a long abandoned cabin

As we descended, the heat climbed. Greg and Julio would pass us as we rested or took pictures, and later we’d pass them. With each passing came a little extra snippet of conversation, and we quickly felt as friends.

The steep descent eventually levelled off

The highlight of the day was a small dot on the map – a hot spring! Greg and Julio planned to stay overnight, while we had planned to simply enjoy it for an hour before moving on. The hike to that spring was, despite being basically down hill or flat, tough again; the heat was intense, every patch of shade from a tree was welcomed and relished. The trail was made up of such giant boulders making every step difficult, with no enjoyment of the view as any deviation from your path would result in a nasty fall. Arriving at the hot springs was EXTRA welcome. We almost missed it, a small gate like barrier alongside the river. Greg made it there first, but was at the campsite when we arrived. It was great to drop the packs and change into bathing clothes. The natural hot spring was VERY HOT, and is piped into a concrete tub, which itself drains into the river, into a mixing patch with the river where a perfect medium warm temperature was found. The hot water was too hot for me, while Kyle enjoyed it (odd since I normally like my bath water way hotter than Kyle does). We each found a patch of water with our preferred temperature and let muscles feel the effects. Heavenly. Eventually we climbed out, and had lunch while our clothing dried. It was quite tough to leave, but we wanted to make as much progress in the valley as possible as we knew the next day would involve yet another climb.

The hot spring and onwards

The hike from the springs started to climb somewhat, and we’d lingered in the spring longer than we ‘should’ have. So we decided to just walk as far as we could until around 5:00pm, and take the first suitable camping spot with water after that. We found a spot about 5 minutes past Whitney Creek (meeting the original goal). Once in the wilderness, there are no regulated camp spots. The only rules are that you must not camp on any vegetation (only on dirt or rock), and you must be a certain distance away from the water.

Throughout the trail we’ve had to cross a number of streams. Generally the crossings have been relatively easy, with perfectly placed stones or logs. Today those options have been less obvious – each step was a little too big, or too far to be comfortable with. We made good use of our poles, but spent some time walking up and down the bank trying to find the best spot to cross, the crossings were no longer fun, but a tad challenging.

Kyle has taken to calling his shoes ‘Foot Prisons’, and every time I stand up after a rest I feel my feet being flattened by the weight so I’m calling them ‘pancake feet’, so miserable is the feeling, it seems sensible to simply not sit and rest if I know I have to keep going, but to rest standing and therefore avoid that pancake feeling as I first stand.

Hiking I’ve decided is misery with a view. I feel the thoughts ‘wow – what a view’ as often as ‘f**k, this hurts’.

As an aside, I have a serious skin allergy to pine oils. Generally this doesn’t bother me (unless I choose to wrestle with a Christmas tree, or bathe in Pine bubble bath), but out here, every suitable sitting place seems to be a pine log, and there are pine needles everywhere else. For the most part I’m managing to avoid them, but I did get one reaction (luckily I carried the required steroids just in case, and this managed to check it in time to prevented anything serious) Still no bears!! But plenty of deer.

At the end of day 4 we had made it around half way along the trail. Turning back now adds no benefit to going forward – so on we plan to go! Our camp site was at 8,000’ – Mount Whitney, the highpoint of the trail is almost twice this altitude. On we go (gulp)!