Punto Chivato & Bahia Concepción

[Kyle]From Santa Rosalia, we sailed south to Punto Chivato, at the northern end of Bahia Concepción. The wind was up and we had a fast sail to the anchorage. We saw our first other sailing cruiser converging on us along the way, headed to a different and further anchorage. It was a monohull flying tanbark colored sails. We fiddled with our sails as best as we could, but they ended up winning the ‘race’. How humiliating, a catamaran with new sails being beaten by a monohull with old-timey sails!

The 'race' ended early as we clearly were not all headed to Punto Chivato

We had intended to stay a couple of nights at Punto Chivato, but it was really windy when we arrived and the anchorage was a long way from shore. We even considered skipping it completely, but it was pretty far to the next stop and the wind was supposed to be worst right then. We decided to anchor for a while and see if it abated, which it eventually did. We picked up a new forecast, which indicated we would be exposed to strong south winds if we stayed the second night, so we decided to leave early the next day for a spot with good protection at the northern end of Coyote Bay, nestled deeper into the larger Bahia Concepción.

Moving deeper into Bahia Concepción to find a calmer anchorage

When we got there, we found no space, so we moved south to Coyote Beach. Coyote Beach was further, which meant we would have to go further the next leg, but it was better protected and had more room. For this anchorage we were the first to arrive, making us conspicuous to the RV campground on the beach.

We found a gap with no campers and landed the dinghy on the beach there. We started with a walk south towards a warm spring that was marked on our chart. Of course, we didn’t get far before we were drawn into a conversation by a Canadian couple hiding from the winter up there. We chatted a bit about our respective journeys and then asked about the warm spring. No good, they said. The vultures use it to clean their food. However, there’s a trail to a nice viewpoint that’s worth taking.

While we were climbing the trail, we noticed the first of the other boats that were moving over to Coyote Beach for the next days blow. We took a bunch of photos and then headed north to the other end of the bay along the road. There wasn’t much to see except for more campers until we got to the highway. There, we found a small store and not one, but two outdoor restaurants. Only one was open - Bertha’s, so we put in an order for lunch. It was very good and bigger than we expected. We left very satisfied.

Exploring around Coyote beach

We wanted to be back aboard before the forecast wind picked up and made it difficult to launch from the beach, so we rowed back to Begonia. Once back at the boat, I decided to rig the sailing kit and have a sail around in the Pudgy. I wasn’t the only one. Two of the other boats in the anchorage, now totalling six, also set up sailing dinghies as well as a few of the RVs on the beach. There also appeared a bunch of identical open sailing ketches that seemed to appear out of nowhere. I left them behind and sailed around the corner into the next cove before the wind picked up and I decided to return to Begonia to get the dinghy up and everything secured for the storm.

In the wee hours the next morning, the forecast wind and rain started. A look outside showed us and the other five yanking impatiently at our anchors as the wind buffeted the bay. As the storm passed overhead, the wind briefly changed unexpectedly and we were all blown toward the beach. As we and one of the boats nearest us got to the end of our respective rodes, we got pretty close to each other. We were just about to start engines and find somewhere safer, when the wind started blowing off the beach again and we all were slowly blown back to our original spots.

The wind and rain pretty much assured that the boats in the water and the RVs ashore would all be having an indoor day.

Back in Santa Rosalia

[Kyle]We booked two nights in the marina, but since we’d already spent a week in the town, this time was unfortunately set aside primarily for chores and other commitments!

Primarily we had internet needs: We needed to connect with the UK via hook up with Skype for a family celebration, and we also prepared and filed our USA taxes before the April deadline (organized!).

And the chores: laundry, top up diesel, clean boat, (Kyle climbed mast with a hose to finally get rid of the dust from the last time we were here), showers (cold), quick grocery run for some fresh produce, etc..

During this visit to Santa Rosalia, the other boats at the marina were (surprisingly) predominantly multi-hulls, this seemed unexpected and comical to everyone there.

A short return visit to Santa Rosalia - primarily for internet

And the weather was NICE this time too, and we had some spare time to enjoy it too. Kyle finally got to walk on the harbor wall (previously it had been closed all but the first day, due to rough seas).

After so enjoying the ospreys in the northern bay – we surprised ourselves to find a pair living within the marina (on a very sturdy, apparently purpose built perch) – not sure how we missed those last time we were here (or maybe the birds hadn’t arrived by then? – hopefully we are not that poor observers).

To balance all the chores, we ate out more than usual while we were here; we partook of street burritos, fancy restaurants and the Chinese we’d enjoyed on our previous visit (which was generous enough to be sure to have leftovers.

South from Ensenada el Alacrán (Scorpion Cove) to Santa Rosalia

[Kyle]An early start (3:34 am) for a long passage – we arrived at 02:44 am the next morning and had some pretty big winds and seas (following) on the passage, regularly seeing 10kts through the water and occasionally 12kts

Early start and mixed weather for this passage

During the passage we also had rain – which gave us a pretty bright double rainbow, and later in the night there was occasional (very distant) lightning flashes to keep us alert.

The route took us via the Canal Salsipuedes (translates to ‘Leave if you can’ channel!) – famed for its strong currents. The strong winds are locally called elefante.

More (mostly distant) whales on this passage – looked like blue whales and humpbacks.

More whale sightings - notoriously hard (for us) to photograph

The strong winds had us arriving in Santa Rosalia so early – we decide to just anchor for the night and rest/recover before moving the boat to the marina later in the day (this also saved us a day of marina fee).

Heading south – to Ensenada el Alacrán (Scorpion Cove)

[Kyle]A not too early start, for an easy sail during which there were lots of whales sighted – but all some distance away – we mostly notice them first by the roar of the spout as they first surface. Generally they seem to be solo whales, they spout a few times and then disappear again.

Leaving Bahia de los Angeles and heading South on a beautiful day

On this passage we had our first ever visit from killer whales (orcas) – a group of 6-8 came to the boat and then soon left us again – WOW! At first, when I heard them spout behind us, I thought they were dolphins. Then I got a better look and those were some BIG dolphins!

Yet again, the expected wind didn’t arrive, so even on this short sail we motored for the last 2 hours to be sure to get there by sunset.

Maryanne occupied her time by making a second (much bigger) batch of Guacamole with provisions from Bahia de los Angeles – YUMMY lunch

Ensenada el Alacrán (Scorpion Cove) is well named since scorpions apparently abound there. Our guidebook told us to also expect yurts, and they were correct. When we arrived, the yurts seemed empty and we wondered if it was off season – but soon after, a panga full or wetsuit attired tourists arrived along with a couple of kayakers – as they landed ashore they each moved along to their respective yurts to clean up for dinner. We are not sure how they avoid the scorpions.. but we didn’t have to worry about them as we didn’t go ashore.

Anchoring by the Yurts!

The yurts are the accommodation of an eco-tourism camp/resort – pretty basic living (although they did have a generator)

On To Bahia de los Angeles.

[Kyle] Yeah, México has a Los Angeles too. This one is much smaller and quieter, and we were headed there.

Another early start - this time leaving Isla Angel De La Guarda

We left Isla Angel de la Guarda at the very first hint of daylight for the long sail. We had light winds for the first hour or so and then it kicked up, giving us a nice push to L.A. Bay, which sits along the inside of a wide, curving beach.

We anchored next to a large motor yacht right off the only boat launch ramp in the village that was still in use. (There were lots of fishing pangas being launched and retrieved from there throughout the day). By now, we understood how unusual it was to spot a fellow cruiser in the bay with us (at least at this time of year) and hoped to at least say hi to our new neighbor, but when we tried to swing by to say hi to the occupant, he set off in his dinghy in a different direction (we are not entirely sure that he saw us, but decided to leave him to his privacy after that).

Anchored in time for sunset

Bahia de Los Angeles is reputed to be the center of the local cruising community as it is the jumping off point for many of the Midriff islands in the Sea of Cortez. We had expected to encounter many other cruisers here and have to find a spot amongst a dozen or so other boats. In my mind, I pictured a Caribbean anchorage where all of the good space was filled by 2pm. Instead, it was just us and the motor-yacht. Plus, it turns out, there is enough anchoring space in front of the village for a hundred boats.

We later learned from another boater that, even in summer, the Bay of L.A. cruising population is generally around a dozen boats. Mostly, they stay within a couple of days sail from the only safe hurricane hole in the Sea of Cortez. This early in the season we appeared to have almost everywhere to ourselves.

Day in Bahia de los Angeles (village)

We were thrilled to awake to our first warm day – finally it was comfortable to sit out in the cockpit to enjoy our breakfast.

This is the type of place that still exists with no cell phone service, a situation that seems quite unbelievable, but true. This was especially frustrating to us, since our guidebook clearly stated cell phone service was available (locals verified it had never existed). Past hurricane damage is still very evident (we assume insurance is rare and it is a cash economy – so any disasters such as hurricane damage are devastating and repairs must first be saved for). Everyone here most likely has several jobs; if the weather is good, the men go fishing.

We were here mainly so we could formally collect the permit required to visit the islands. We were not entirely sure where to go for the permit, so we bounced about official looking buildings and were pointed a little closer each time. Eventually, we arrived only to find out that although they could (technically) give us the pass we expected, they didn’t have the annual ‘passport’ to issue to us, nor the daily bracelets currently in stock – but we could pay for several daily permits and keep our paperwork as evidence. Problem solved (just not as we’d expected).

Despite being a small hamlet of a town, numerous guidebooks and other cruisers all mentioned that the museum was not to be missed. Naturally, we went (we were the only visitors for several days if the visitor log was to be believed), and along with the exhibits, we had ‘Jill’ the ginger cat to keep us company.

The small, but well presented museum (and the cat)

After the museum, we happened upon a bakery – the bread rolls we purchased were warm, right out the oven – so rather than keep them for a later meal, we decided to just eat them there and then!

Our walk about the remaining town took us past a few small grocery stores and taco stands (but not much else)… Each little grocery store seems to have a side speciality, so it is well worth stopping in them all (once has a section of hardware and auto parts, another a butcher, etc). Maryanne was quite surprised to find a pint-size bottle of mineral oil in one of the mini-markets. (We use it to treat our butcher block). In Ensenada, we’d only managed to find 100ml bottles, and in Santa Rosalia we could not find it at all (available in neither pharmacy nor hardware stores) – so it was quite unexpected to find it in a tiny village.

There is reported to be some decent trails for hiking that would have been nice (I had on the wrong shoes). Also, just 20km out of town, some cave paintings that would have been interesting to see… but all the folks with 4-wheel-drive vehicles were out fishing on an unusually calm day .. oh well!

about Bahia de los Angeles

The following morning, with a fresh weather report downloaded, and really not much else to the town, we decided to move on south and make the most of some good wind.

Isla Angel De La Guarda (Guardian Angel Island)

[Kyle]We had lots of wind behind us for our departure from Bahia San Luis Gonzaga, which had us hoping we would be anchored by early afternoon. A few hours later, the wind died on us so we decided to motor to ensure our arrival the same day and keep us from having to be out overnight.

Another early start and we soon had visitors

Disturbingly, the giant 167' ‘Sail Rock’ at the entrance to the harbor did not show on our main electronic chart (luckily we have multiple guidebooks and charts, and had arrived in daylight!)

Guardian Angel is the same island at which we were stalled without wind on our way north – now we would actually anchor in one of its many bays: West Bay nestled at the north of the main island, in sight of Isla Division and Isla Mejia.

On the way into the anchorage, we saw several whale spouts. Once we got closer, we found the spouts were coming from Blue whales! We have never seen them in the wild before (at least we'd never been close enough to identify them with certainty). These creatures really are enormous. An adult Humpback swimming among them would look like a calf.

We made it in time for a beautiful fiery sunset.

First day at anchor - Isla Angel De La Guarda

This group of islands is part of a protected chain that is totally uninhabited. We took off in the dingy go ashore on the nearest island: Isla Mejia. From the boat we had sighted a little shrine there and so headed first to that before walking around in the SW area of the island. The island was hilly and with few obvious trails, but we attempted to climb some of the hills for the views. Kyle took a nasty fall, ripped a foot long tear in the back of his shorts and pulled off a chunk of skin from his hand (oops), so rather than walk too much further, we took the dingy over to a small spit to explore the NW area where we were thrilled to see a pair of ospreys and their giant nest. The walk was an absolute pleasure of constant discovery of something new and interesting. Aside from the ospreys we also saw lots of other sea birds, mostly gulls, and the beaches were littered with lots of beautiful seashells as well as a few bones of bigger animals like sea lions and even a few whale ribs. The island is covered with what looks like a beefy variety of Saguaro cactus and it seems strangely surreal to to see seagulls sat in cactus. We also got to see several of the local iguana species warming themselves in the bright sunshine. WOW!

Exploring Isla Mejia

There was reported to be great snorkelling here, but the water is still a bit too cold this early in the year– even with wetsuits – so instead I dug out the sailing kit for the Pudgy and spent a happy hour sailing around the bay with a big smile on my face, while Maryanne relaxed in the cockpit with a book.

Kyle couldn't resist a bit more sailing - this time in the Portland Pudgy!

Second day at anchor - Isla Angel De La Guarda

Kyle setup the motor on the dinghy and we planned a circular route into the bigger bay at the north of Isla Angel de la Guarda by circumnavigating Isla Division. The route had us starting south of the Division Island across a very shallow gap marked as ‘false passage’. While we knew we could not take Begonia that way, we figured we had a good chance of finding a passage for the dinghy - we just made it by lifting the engine and punting with the oars across the shallow flat rocks at mid tide.

A shallow passage eventually led us to Arch rock and more osprey

We poked around in West Bight hoping we might find a good place to land and go ashore. While the scenery was spectacular, none of it looked like suitable hiking land since there was no obvious walking trail to follow. The hills were both too steep, and looked more loose than the one Kyle had slid down the previous day.

So we moved on with the dingy, and rounded Arch Rock, where we saw lots of small caves in addition to the arch, as well as another set of nesting ospreys.

Views of the main island

We finally found a suitable place to land and go ashore on the main island at Middle Bight. There, we were able to climb inland for a little way, marvelling at the many strange species of drought and heat adapted flora and their utilitarian beauty. We also saw (and smelled) a big chunk of a decaying baleen whale on the beach.

Piedra Blanca

Leaving the main island, we took the dinghy across for a closer look at the very spiky Piedra Blanca (white rock) - home to seagulls, cormorants, and a few cranes, for a quick circuit.

From there, we went further north to Isla Granito (Granite Island) – home to several colonies of sea lions – many of which seemed young and happy to come and inspect us in our bright yellow dinghy. It was clear that Granito was their island. All of the good beach landing spots were wall-to-wall sea lions.

Sea lions of Isla Granito

We made it home an hour or so before dark, which gave us just enough light to prepare Begonia for our next leg. After sunset, the only other artificial light visible (aside from our boat lights) was the flashing white navigation aid two miles away on Isla Granito (Granite Island). We could hear the sea lions over there, too, Their barks slowly fading with the last of the light.