Nuku Hiva Island - Controllers Bay

[Maryanne]After a relatively slow overnight sail to the next island of Nuku Hiva, we arrived at our anchorage in Controleur’s Bay to find only two boats in the anchorage (YAY!) - and one of them is WaterHoen (Alfred and Adva) - so we have friends here (Double YAY!)

After an overnight sail we arrive to find Waterhoen already at anchor

After a brief nap, we went ashore and explored for the water tap – had a walk around town (enough to find store and church) then returned to beach to fill water, and returned to boat to decant (Kyle then made a second trip to fetch more water – during which he managed to graze his knee and crack a water jug - Doh!!

Back at the pretty black sand beach, it was a weekend, and locals were apparently breaking in a horse in the ocean. It made a lot of sense – if they fall off, it is just into the water, and the water probably makes the horse tire more easily and therefore be more compliant?

Ashore for water

After collecting water and topping up the tanks, we had a bit of a fright when it became clear some cruisers had reported this water as NON-Potable. Luckily Kyle managed to find a local in government vehicle and uniform on the beach one day who assured him that this was GREAT water - very clean, and very safe to drink… YAY/Whew!! Close call. Kyle subsequently completely filled our tanks here (Multiple trips back and forth with the dingy and water jugs) and should be set until we get to Tahiti.

The town is a bit back from the bay, and you can access it by taking the dinghy up the river – but the river is very shallow in spots (especially at low tide) so it is quite the job to navigate via the ‘deep enough’ patches – but we became quite good at it. One morning I (Maryanne) went into town alone to do some basic grocery shopping and en route found Alfred stranded ashore in low water, so I guided him into town. [Kyle] Maryanne is Tapivai’s newest and finest river pilot!

Walking from the wharf to the grocery store we passed a couple of locals walking a horse loaded with bananas. They asked if I wanted any (YES!!!) – and when I had my share (which they offered to simply drop off at the dinghy for me) I asked how much and they refused any money. At the biggest of the grocery stores I was told there is no bread (island has run out of flour), and no eggs (just sent them all to the next town).. etc.. But I did manage to get my very short list of provisions by visiting multiple stores (and accepting frozen Baguette). Everyone was AMAZINGLY friendly and with my poor French we managed reasonably well. Locals taught me Marquesan for onion (Ani-Ani) as we giggled in the store. Kyle and I have grown to enjoy a breakfast of Pamplemouse and had used our last one several days ago – so I was determined to find some. Since everyone has fruit trees in their garden, there is no point to the stores selling them – but I asked around – and at one store was provided with 6 lovely Pamplemousse and a several Papayas (all just plucked from the tree) – again they refused payment for the fruit. After WAY longer than I had planned, I made my way back to the boat to drop off our provisions and pick up Kyle for some exploring.

Our goal was to reach a waterfall, but directions were a little vague, so we set off out of town with hope we were headed in the right direction. We didn’t find it, but instead found a sign for an archeological site 500m->. I think 500m was the straight-line distance, which required traversing miles of muddy switchbacks to cover. With each step, we had to chose between shoe-sucking mud or firmer rocks covered with enough moisture to lubricate them as if they had been greased. The site was interesting enough, but what we will always remember is emerging back onto the road covered from head to toe like the participants in those mud races they have in the U.S. South. We really needed to find that waterfall. We walked quite a bit further out of town until we were at the point where we needed to turn around to get back before dark. We finally found the waterfall in question, but it was a long way away and we were clearly not on a route that would take us there. It was pretty, though.

Walking back, a truck stopped after passing us. In the back was Adva and two of her friends from another boat, Danika. They had found a way to the top of the falls, but it took them four and a half hours to do so. A friendly local picked them up to save them walking back in the dark.

Later that night we had the crew of both Waterhoen, and Danika aboard for cake that I’d baked earlier in the day. They brought along to share with the crowd some chocolate apparently made by a local entrepreneur in a nearby bay – it was delicious (and they left the remainder of the bar for us to enjoy later)!

We could easily have stayed longer here, but then there were so many other places we wanted to see…

Overnight - a 70’ tree floated by and bumped against us a few times… Yikes!

Tahuata Island - HanaMoeNoe

Another sweet passage - to another great destination

[Kyle]We left early and had a fast sail in strong winds to our next anchorage on the north side of the island of Tahuata. The anchorage was very full with many boats we had seen before. It took us a while to find a spot, but once we did, we just had to jump in and snorkel with everybody else. That took the heat off, but by the time we were done, half of the other boats in Hanavave showed up and the place started to feel a little too much like Spring Break.

For the next couple of days we had LOTS of rain, which clouded the water and kept us inside the muggy cabin. This did not help our moods (mine especially). Most of the other boats had been together since Panamá and had formed an impenetrable clique centered on having lots of kids aboard as well as having big boats with every convenience aboard. I felt out of place listening to chirpy conversations on the radio about long, hot showers (made possible by on-board desalination plants), electric breadmakers and the air conditioning in the kids’ rooms. When even more started showing up the next day, I decided I needed a break from crowds.

But still - we have a great view

Fatu Hiva Island - HanaVave Bay

[Maryanne]Passage:We rounded the east point of Hiva Oa in big seas and head winds, then headed SSW on a fast sail to the beautiful island of Fatu Hiva. The anchorage was crowded and the only place we could find to anchor was in water 28M deep. We ordinarily aim for 4-8, with a stretch to 10 if necessary. 28 meant we had to put out everything we had and we would need a lot of swinging room. It was going to be a long row ashore for tomorrow - but we had waterfalls and stunning scenery all around us. There were even dolphins in anchorage on our arrival.

First full day:

We spent the day exploring the tiny village and surroundings of Hana Vave on the island of Fatu Hiva in the far south of the Marquesas.

Beautiful anchorage with a friendly Welcome

The bay itself is stunningly beautiful with some amazing rock formations (currently also with cranes and diggers working on some updates to the tiny harbor) We walked ashore to a local waterfall and pool, but it was very muddy and the hike and the pool were both crowded with other cruisers. It felt a little like we were in a queue for a Disney ride. We then started walking on the single lane road off towards the town of Omoa - (only towards mind you - not anywhere near it - just enough to get way above the town of Hana Vave and really enjoy the views – not a single person, goat or car passed us in either direction). It has been overcast and rainy the last few days (luckily no rain today). We also managed to get some extra drinking water after shuttling back and forth with the dingy.

At the start of the walk today - we stopped at the local store (where you must first take off your shoes) - it is a tiny store - about 8 foot square - and the clerk there had an amazing plant head dress on (she was very happy when I asked to take a picture).

As we were returning with the dingy to the boat – the local school children all started returning aboard small open boats from a nearby village (clearly travelling by boat is much quicker than by road)… The “moms” were all waiting at the dock to greet their returning children and walk them home for the day.

Day of rest turns to rescue

So, we took an extra day in Hanavave to 'relax' and catch up with chores, but it just didn't happen. One of the other boats in the anchorage came detached from its anchor while the owners were all ashore and oblivious. One of the connector links in their anchor chain had rusted through, leaving their boat completely adrift. Kyle, along with a couple of other boats that had owners in the anchorage, went and spent several hours getting it away from imminent rocks, finding a spare anchor and transferring that to their boat and then re-anchoring it somewhere safe waiting for the owners to return. The 3 boats concerned in helping then took turns to watch over it and wait on the owners return. Kyle had just been relieved of his turn once the owners arrived back. After that, one of the boats with SCUBA divers and gear were able to make the deep dive to reunite them with their anchor and chain.

This is something we *hope* any boat would do when they see another in such trouble and neither of us thought twice about doing whatever we could. But get this: the owner did not AT ALL get on the radio, nor dinghy over to our boat to even say THANK YOU... Basically, their boat would have been toast and their dreams dashed (and we know how that feels). They also had kids travelling with them, so what a nightmare if their boat had been lost to the rocks in such a remote place, which it would have been if wasn't due to the kindness of people like Kyle and the others that dropped everything to rush in and help and we didn't even get a thank you... Kyle is at one with it, but I'm pretty upset on his behalf. It is possible that Kyle's name didn't reach them in the subsequent confusion of restoring them to full working order, but it still stings.

Hiva Oa Island - Baie Pua Mau

[Kyle]Leaving Hana Menu, we tacked our way east along the north coast of Hiva Oa, alternating between open sea with the island in the distance and close up under the cliffs. There were plenty of waterfalls and remote little valleys – scenes we are just pinching ourselves that we get to experience.

Anchoring amidst the steep spires of the volcanic crater at Pua Mau was a little more challenging. Once we were settled in and confident we were secure, a local boat came by that did not seem keen on having us there (warning of dangers with large waves). From the guy’s tone when he yelled, “Go Home!”, I thought it might be more about him not wanting any yachts in the bay. I didn’t doubt this place could be rather scary, particularly in north winds, but the forecast was from the southeast, from which direction the bay would offer protection. The only spot in the harbor of reasonable depth was only a few boat lengths before the gentle swell ahead changed into crashing breakers behind. I was pretty confident that the weather conditions were reducing and we’d be fine for the time we planned to stay. It is always difficult to ignore local advice on such matters but I was pretty sure all would be fine. Still, I was bothered enough by the whole encounter to stay up late at the helm with all of the instruments on until I was absolutely confident it wasn’t going to get bad and that we were going to stay put away from the breakers.

For our full day there – after swimming ashore through the surf (no obvious ‘nice’ landing spots for the dinghy) and climbing the hill a short way to see the Iipona Archaeological site of the Tikis.

The site was well visited, but empty of any other visitors while we were there. There is a useful sign board explaining the site, which contains the largest Tiki outside of Easter Island. (Tiki is thought to be the name of one of the early carvers, whose mane was applied to all of the statues in tribute). Afterwards, we ambled back down the hill to the village through the pretty countryside. We even found a chicken in a banana tree! We paid the fee for Iipona after we returned to the village and found the snack store which visitors in vehicles needed to pass to get to the site. At a separate store we picked up some sweet banana pastries that fueled our walk (and swim) back to the boat.

Hiva Oa Island – HanaMenu

[Maryanne]In Hanamenu (NW Hiva Oa): There are no roads to here, and there was no boat on the village mooring when we arrived, so we assumed it is now only used for getaways by the remaining owners or seasonal harvesting of coconuts and fruit. Indeed we found ourselves the only boat here, and after the dark of the evening descended, it appeared as if nobody was ashore (no lights), so we were quite convinced it was uninhabited.

Given this, and the expectation of an interesting landing in the surf, we went ashore with just our waterproof camera - i.e. with no money and no exchanges for possible trade. We wandered around the river and possible trails for a while - finding plenty to occupy us (and crabs, and flies and the tiny biting no-nos).

We eventually circled our way back to the old/current village. Plenty of old lava stone built walls and newer wooden homes - some amazingly beautiful (and very well tended) gardens. Eventually, we heard music playing, so we called out “Bonjour!”, so as not to surprise anyone and were welcomed by one of the owners (he was taking a short visit to Hanamenu to tidy up and mow grass after the recent death of his father). He insisted we take pamplemouse (grapefruit), citron vert (limes), and even some wild boar he had shot the previous evening. He then directed us to use the pool if we wanted to bathe.

The generous and talented local
And we bathed in the pool (with the flowers and the boar head... that's a first)

The “Hollywood pool” is to the west side of the beach, within the village - where soap and loofa were also provided - it is fed by a waterfall and surrounded by tropical flowers - and on the day we visited there was also a boar’s head carefully placed to clean in the fast exit water. Quite the amazing Marquesan experience and welcome! Dinner aboard was wild boar vindaloo that night, and breakfast for the next few days will be pamplemouse! How lucky are we?