Friday, July 19, 2024

Carter’s Beach, Nova Scotia

[Kyle]Having made the stop at Dogs Hole, the remaining sail to Carter's Beach was a short one. The fog was so tenacious that day that by the time we approached the anchorage, the beach and the seven other boats anchored there were only known to us as blips on the radar. Only when the water depth had dropped to three meters and Maryanne dropped anchor did a thin line of beach become visible in the distance.


Another dreary day of sailing (poor Kyle)

We had rain and fog all night. As I was checking the weather and drinking my morning coffee, the rain stopped and within half an hour every single cloud had left the sky.

The area turned out to be quite scenic and we wasted no time piling into the dinghy for an explore.

As we were heading out, we noticed a boat called "Caper" anchoring right next to us. This was very exciting because, unbeknownst to everybody but me, Caper is our arch-nemesis.

It all started way back on May 13th, just after we re-cleared into Canada in Brockville. I noticed Caper heading smartly downstream about half an hour ahead of us. They then anchored in Morristown in the exact spot we had been hoping to use. We settled for a spot slightly downstream, were we could keep an eye on them across Skeleton Island. The next day, we left early for the Iroquois Lock and were surprised we weren't followed. We were the first boat through on Opening Day. As we tied up for the night in Morrisburg, Caper sailed on past and disappeared around the corner. Since then, we have been leapfrogging each other from anchorage to anchorage. I'm fairly sure it is a singlehander on board and this person appears to like to sail through the night between widely-spaced destinations. Every time I think I've finally got them, they disappear into the night.

After calling "Ahoy!" a few times to no avail, Maryanne tossed our boat card into the cockpit and I made a point of giving the hull a light smack with the palm of my hand. Caper was now "it". We'll see them later...

We first went to the Spectacle Islands, where we took the short trail to the lighthouse there. As we were turning to head back to the dinghy, we took pictures of a sailboat heading out to sea. Closer examination revealed it to be Caper. They just got here! I shock my fists in the air. Caper!!!


After some inspection and maintenance, we started the day with a trip to see the mini-lighthouse on Spectacle Island

From Spectacle Island we returned to the main beach and walked its entire length in both directions. It is Plover nesting season, so there were a lot of taped-off areas and reminders to only walk on the wet sand to help protect the well-camouflaged nests.


Enjoying the beauty of Carter's Beach and the scampering Piping Plovers

On the way back to Begonia we swung by the other two boats remaining in the anchorage with us. Both boats were American. The one nearest us was a delivery couple late in their season. They were in a hurry to get to Florida and were planning on sailing direct at the next weather window. The other boat, Seraphim, was from Salem, Massachusetts. Amy and Drew were on the return leg of their Summer loop to Nova Scotia. We liked them instantly, but after a day out in the sun, felt too grubby to climb aboard their beautiful boat. Instead, taking my cue from the people at the beach, I had a go at my first "swim" of the season. Oh, that is still not recommended, but at least I feel less grubby.


Anchorage location >> On google maps

Tuesday, July 16, 2024

Dogs Hole, East Berlin, Nova Scotia

[Kyle]After leaving Tanner's Pass, we had a few good minutes of sailing before we were completely engulfed in Atlantic Nova Scotia's ubiquitous fog. We were hoping for at least a passing glimpse of Lunenberg, but we saw nothing but gray. The same happened with the Blue Nose, the famous schooner that appears on the back of the Canadian dime, as it passed us by less than a mile.


Departing Tanners Pass (before the fog descended)

After several hours of tacking into an unfavorable current, it became apparent that we would not be able to make it to our planned anchorage at Carter's Beach by nightfall, so we diverted to nearby Dogs Hole for the night.

Being slightly exposed and rolly, it was not surprising that we were the only ones there when we broke out of the fog and set anchor in front of what appeared to be mothballed summer homes.

In the morning, we dragged the dinghy up onto the rocks and spent a few hours on a cobbled-together walk that included the adjacent beach and most of the nearby roads. The whole day, we saw maybe six other people. That seemed weird because it was the middle of July and that's when we would have expected the Summer homes to all be occupied with people enjoying a respite from their city lives.


Enjoying some delightful time ashore in the sunshine


Anchorage location >> On google maps

Sunday, July 14, 2024

Tanner's Pass (Not Lunenberg!)

[Kyle]We left Halifax in 4am darkness for the shortish upwind bash to not Lunenberg. We had really wanted to go to Lunenberg. Everyone we met told us to go, putting special emphasis on explaining the utter pointlessness of visiting Nova Scotia without a stop there.

With the forecast the way it was, we had two choices for our visit: The first was to anchor on the unprotected southern side and take the beating we would get when trying to get to and from shore. The other was to take advantage of Begonia's shallow drought and anchor on the lovely, flat, protected northern side of the village. The seemed like the obvious choice until I started measuring out the route. The northern anchorage is a long way out of the way along our generally coastal route. Getting in for a stop and then getting back out would likely cost us three days, which I didn't feel we could really spare, considering the places we were trying to get to down the road as well. Because of this, we chose the third option of going to Tanner's Pass, which is accessible from Lunenberg via a really long dinghy ride at high tide, but it's at least not too far out of the way.


Tanner's Pass has a smattering of cottages and working fishing boats - make it very picturesque!

There is maybe just enough deep water in Tanner's Pass for two boats to have enough swinging room. Fortunately for us, the other guy never showed.

Our first morning there, we arose too late for high tide, so we contented ourselves with a long dinghy-tour of the dozens of channels and islets around Begonia. It is very wild, pretty and remote around here.


Exploring the islands and inlets by dinghy - such a joy

The next morning announced itself not with gleaming sunlight coming in the hatches, but deafening rain bouncing off the decks and forming a haze of mist. Not feeling too enthused about a four-hour dinghy ride, during which we would be bailing the whole time, in order to get to town, we instead opted for a day of cozy, warm foods in our dry cabin. I guess Summer is over again.


Anchorage location >> On google maps

Thursday, July 11, 2024

Halifax, Nova Scotia

[Kyle]Having come most of the way on our previous leg, we had an easy, half-day beat the rest of the way to Halifax. Halifax sits on a peninsula that separates the main shipping port from Southwest Arm (Armdale area), which is home to most of the city's pleasure boats as well as a lot of fancy houses. We made our way right to the end, where we anchored in one of the only available spots that is not filled with moorings.


The sail to Halifax was in mixed weather, and Maryanne found time to service one of the winches that had been playing-up

Fellow Offshore Cruising Club (OCC) members Judy and Andrew had invited us to their home and encouraged us to use their shower and laundry machines, as well as inviting us to dinner; we could not have had a better welcome!. We were heading over in the dinghy the next morning when Judy intercepted us from her daughter's boat. The engine had just been repaired and she was checking it out for her while Andrew followed in a skiff. "Tie-up your dinghy and hop aboard."

After returning her daughter's boat to its mooring, we all headed to the house. Judy and Andrew had just returned the week before from the Mediterranean, where their 'big' boat currently resides, after months away. With no time for a rest, they hit the ground running and are now doing major repairs and modifications to the house before rushing back to complete the season in the Med. They are the type of people who make you tired just watching them.

With errands to do, they gave us a quick lesson on the laundry machines and then left us to their house. We put a load in and immediately headed out for a walk along the path that runs along Southwest Arm's left-hand shore. We eventually ended up at the Royal Nova Scotia Yacht Club, where we decided we could use a sit down and a cold beverage. They looked at me with suspicion, but once Maryanne started talking, they agreed to let us right in.


We started along an easy trail to reach "The Dingle" tower

With hours still remaining before our scheduled dinner appointment, we decided to take the long way home through nearby Shaw Wilderness Park. By the time we had made it to the far corner at Colpitt Lake, we were starting to realize we would need to pick up the pace a bit if we were going to be back to the house on time. We chugged away and made it with just ten minutes remaining.


And followed with a longer loop that took us by the yacht squadron and through Shaw Wilderness Park and back via some pretty neighbourhoods

Over our delicious and well-appreciated dinner, we compared sailing stories and the various places we have all travelled. When we got to our plans in Halifax, we mentioned that we were hoping to go walking around the city over the next couple of days. That's when Judy called her sister Janet, who then graciously offered us the use of their dock on the opposite, city side of Southwest Arm for easier access. When they explained where it was, we realized it was literally the closest dock to where Begonia was anchored no more than ten boat lengths away. Well, that couldn't be more convenient!


A peaceful anchorage

In the morning, we walked up the hill to Janet's house, where we introduced ourselves and met her husband, Stephen. We immediately liked them both and were hoping we could find a way to squeeze in some time with them. Alas, Like Judy and Andrew, they had a lot going on over the next week and we couldn't make anything work.

Based on a few heat warnings in the forecast, I took a chance at going all day with just a t-shirt and shorts. It seemed a bit foolish because there was a definite chill on the boat caused by all of he cold water in which she was sitting. Once we were more than a block from the water, though, the baking sun warmed us right back up. In no time, we were glad to be under the protection of Halifax's prodigious leafy shade. Our first real day of Summer!

We had no particular goal in mind, so we walked over the peninsula to the industrial, eastern side. It is still used for heavy shipping at the edges, but the waterfront closest to downtown has been rejuvenated into a busy pedestrianized zone of shops and restaurants.


We ambled around Halifax

We stopped at the Public Gardens along the way and joined a free tour. There, we were informed several times that we were NOT in a park. Parks are generally wild areas, the Halifax Public Garden is a tended garden for the benefit of the public. They have opening hours and rules of decorum. Well, they are lovely at any rate.

One amusing bit of irony is that, in honor of Halifax's connection to the Titanic disaster, they have a floating model of the Titanic in their pond. The first model sank within a few months. The second one developed a leak, started to down by the head, broke in half and then sank. Our tour guide told us the current model was 3D printed out of solid plastic that is lighter than water so that it can't sink.

Our second day in Halifax was also a hot one. (Two in a row!) We made a more concerted effort to be organized and did tours of both the Citadel and the Immigration Museum. Halifax was Canada's main port of entry for immigrants in the years after the World Wars - equivalent to Ellis Island in New York for the U.S. It was very well done, with lots of touching personal stories of people's journies to their new home. At the end, I was welling with pride at my new home. Then I remembered I was on Tourist Status and had to be out in just over a month.



Fun at the Citadel


The Immigration museum was really well presented, and an unexpectedly moving experience; followed by a pub visit and more general ambling around the city

With the fun over, the time came to get on with jobs. Bleah! We trudged to various stores, bought a mountain of provisions, and then paid a poor cab driver to bring us back. Then we loaded the dinghy until there was only about four inches between the top of the gunwale and the water. Then we climbed on top of it all, reducing it by another two inches, and very carefully took our haul home to be squirreled away into every last one of Begonia's hidey-holes. Groan! Now we at least have a couple of months before we have to do anything other than light shopping.


A huge thank you for the generosity of the hosts we were lucky to spend time with during our visit to Halifax: Sisters Judy(left) and Janet(right) and their partners


Anchorage location >> On google maps (Outside of mooring balls and yacht race buoys)