Now, I mean no disrespect to York, which is a lovely old city, but it has got nothing on Prague. Those who have been know exactly what I am talking about. Prague is incredible on so many levels. Maryanne and I have been lucky enough to see so many of the world's most beautiful cities, but Prague tops them all (so far).
Everything there is beautiful beyond the ability to take it all in. Rooftops and ledges and doorways are all filled with so much carefully-crafted detail that you could spend hours looking at each section and admiring its exquisite beauty, except that there is a whole city of it surrounding you in three dimensions.
Take the lampposts as one small example. Prague has by far the biggest, most elaborate, intricately ornate lampposts I've ever seen.
Some of the many ornate and grand lampposts that Kyle found in Prague
Now imagine that every part of the city is as over the top as the lampposts. It doesn't stop there. As you walk the cobbled streets, the air smells of barbecue, baking cinnamon and flowers. It's too much!
Considering every minute spent in our giant hotel room as wasted, we walked for miles and miles and miles along steep streets, mouths agape at all that we saw. We walked until we were limping and sore and then we would spot something in the distance and somehow muster the strength to limp over to see it. The cafes along the way helped, but it was still a grind by the end of each amazing day.
If there was anything I would say detracts from the appeal of Prague, it would be the quality of table service at restaurants. Prague's servers do not, as a general rule, seem to be pulled from a sub-population of naturally friendly people. We did have a few nice servers but, generally speaking, restaurant service ranged between indifferent to bordering on hostile. When Maryanne was served clearly undercooked chicken one day, sure they took it away and heated it up a bit more, but then just returned it to the table without any nod to their mistake..
Based on reports I have seen first hand from servers around the world, Maryanne universally makes excellent menu selections. Thus, it was quite shocking to be present at yet another of her inspired choices and see the server let out an exasperated sigh, accompanied by a teenage eye roll in response.
I'm going to be charitable and assume that I must be misunderstanding some cultural difference, like service people spontaneously smiling at strangers is just something that is not done, like an actor breaking character, and not that they are actually jerks.
Even so, don't get me wrong. One night in Prague is worth putting up with a hundred pissy waiters.
That said, we ate and walked hand-in-hand and sat on park benches amidst the most incredible backdrops. It was thoroughly lovely and far too much to describe. Perhaps some pictures would do the job...
[Maryanne]I feel Kyle has barely touched on the many sights we absorbed in this beautiful, walkable city. We both loved it, and the weather held out for us (given the time of year things could have been quite different). We were extra fortunate in that our accomodation spit us out into the giant square in the center of old town, and this was all filled with stands and decorations for the traditional Easter Market.
At the Old Town square we cound enjoy the Easter Market and the local treats, including the TrdelnÃk (Chimney Cakes)
We visited the Municipal House (an ornate art-nouveau-ish civic building with concert hall) many times, for its cafe and American Bar, and a tour of its very grand rooms
We crossed the Vltava River via the various bridges (the Charles Bridge being the most famous) and by boat tour
We visited the various old towers and gates, many of which you could climb for the views, and offered some small museum on some of the floors as an excuse to pace ourselves on the climb up. We especially loved St Henry's Tower which housed the lovely Restaurant Zvonice where we grabbed lunch one day with a table by a giant bell
We took in some culture with a classical music concert, in the beautiful Mirror Chappel of the Clementinum
But the best part of the Clementinum was the old Baroque library and the connection to early and renowned astronomers (like Tycho Brahe) who made key observations in the very tower where we were able to climb for the history and the views
There were so many churches, the castle (with the most painfully boring audio guide I've ever experienced), the gardens, that kept us occupied, but even less obvious things, like the post office, and the shopping malls contained so much beauty. We were forced (due to time) to skip the Jewish district, and due to lack of physical cash we also had to miss the recently excavated and complete Alchemist Labratory. But, there was plenty to keep us busy during our 4 days in Prague.
The main post office
There is art and quirky fun everywhere
The Astronomical Clock at the Old Town Hall is a #1 tourist spot
Churches and Cathedrals with ornate (and sometimes gawdy) decoration
We visited a host of different gardens, and can only imagine how beautiful they would be in full bloom.
I have so much more I could write, and with details, details, details of places and artists, etc... But what I think Kyle is trying to say is that it is well worth going - so hopefully our friends and family all get to see for themselves someday; we might even return ourselves one day.
