so French!
No Internet connection right now, but hopefully soon. So this is just a quick message via the sat phone.
so French!
No Internet connection right now, but hopefully soon. So this is just a quick message via the sat phone.
Sailing conditions: More downwind and light sailing, again a bit more motoring yesterday, and seas relatively flat. A little
wing-on-wing with the screacher (our light wind sail) until the wind picks up too much. Not a great fast passage, but mostly easy.
General Comments: Although we are truly appreciating the warmer weather, and the bright sunshine of the day, we are already finding
mosquitoes in the boat by early evening. for the last two nights now! A killing patrol is in order, but I fear we are already
losing the battle; who knows what they will be like once we are actually within sight of land!
The past few nights the bioluminescence trailing off the back of each hull make the boat seem like a pair of rocket ships blasting
through the night waters, it's magical to watch and I hope the millions of creatures we have disturbed forgive us for ploughing
through their waters; they put on a great show. [Kyle] It's not just the boat wake that lights up the seas. What in the day time
are white caps, at night become self laminating flashes for the same reasons, watching the sea is as romantic as watching the night
stars.
Kyle amazed me yesterday by telling me that we have now moved South enough to be at the same latitude as Portland, Oregon (where the
boat hails from). Portland for me always seems such a cold place (compared to France), and it is hard for me to remember that
Britain is on the same latitude as Siberia, given our relatively mild climate (thanks to the ocean currents).
We are nearly there of course, and now we are stalling at the entrance to the Gironde, waiting for slack water to sail up the river
on the flood (with the current); entering on the ebb is reported to be quite treacherous. So far even though we are only 8 or 10
miles from shore, it is too hazy to see land, so no comments yet on the beauties of France.
We are almost there but we'll still not be able to rest and celebrate since our first task will be to prepare the mast for removal
(remove the sails, disconnect all the rigging, no mean feat). We will also have to find officials for the legal procedures of
entering the country.
Food: Salad for Lunch, Pasta for dinner
Progress: Yesterday we made 88.16nm, So far on this trip we have travelled (through the water) 571nm, and have 45nm (routed line -
to Pauillac now, which includes 29 newly added nautical miles for the adjusted destination) to go.
Sailing conditions: Yesterday was so calm most of the day we made very little progress except for a while under motor. The sea was
so flat it's hard to be sure you are on an ocean, great for sleeping, not for progress and most unexpected for the notorious Bay of
Biscay. Frustrating as it seems the short distance to go is still a LONG way off.
General Comments: All the motoring yesterday gave us a chance to top up all our electronics. This was nice since along with my
French lessons, I'm also enjoying a number of my favorite PodCasts of which I had a huge backlog before leaving the UK (The Dave
Gorman Show, Car Talk, Naked Scientist, The complete guide to Everything, Friday night Comedy, and This American Life; a nice range
of fun, ridiculous, academic, and interesting).
Kyle too has been studying his French; we still can't understand 90%+ of what is said on the VHF radio so it's clear we need to be
studying. He also had a good spring clean of the boat, what a hero.
Food: Chinese Vegetable Noodles for Lunch, Pizza for dinner.
Progress: Yesterday we made 73.56nm, So far on this trip we have travelled (through the water) 511.29, and have 110nm (routed line)
to go.
Sailing conditions: Shifted to upwind, uncomfortable sailing, so with that and the surrounding storms we are holding off and hanging
out. Good wind crossing the channel and the first half day along the coast; Maryanne fought with sails up, down and reefed, storm
gusts over night, etc until the midnight hand over where things really turned nasty. We spent a lot of time with sails down, so our
good early progress yesterday didn't last.
General Comments: With strong off shore winds, we had two birds come and take refuge aboard Footprint, unfortunately one didn't
survive the night and the first left a our point closest to land so we hope he did just fine. All the VHF radio chatter is in
French, and it is obvious we have a LONG way to go despite our months of effort (with the radio static and rapid conversation, we
only understand the odd words).
During Kyle's watch yesterday he decided to change the clocks; well some of them, not all, so we would be on French time. Not only
had he changed the clocks, he'd changed the watch pattern (in his head). He didn't share any of this with me, and seemed upset when
I woke him an hour early since I was using my watch. We could not agree on the right time to use (I thought we'd already agreed to
stick to BST for the passage) so eventually we changed all the clocks and watches on the boat, switched to a different watch sheet
(so we are effectively do exactly the same thing at the same times), and then he decided it was crazy to have changed but 'we've
done it now' [Kyle] Now hang on a minute. I DID tell her I had changed the clocks when I woke her for her watch. It seemed a simple
enough thing to do but the way she reacted, you'd think I told her we were sailing the rest of the way backwards. [Maryanne]And I
swear he somehow stole an hour from my rest/sleep period.
Food: Leftovers for lunch and pasta for dinner, simple, easy, quick.
Progress: Yesterday we made 111nm, So far on this trip we have travelled (through the water) 406.16, and have 198nm (routed line) to
go.
General Comments: More Dolphins to play! Just after I reported not many boats around we noticed a fishing vessel actively trawling
that we would need to avoid. Just as we were trying to understand just how far behind it was safe to pass, it stopped in its tracks.
At first we were unsure why, but we soon decided that it was letting us pass ahead of it. This proved a difficult gift, as the
trawler was still moving, just very slowly, and to pass ahead of it, we still needed to shift to more downwind sailing, blanketing
our foresail, and making our progress slower, as all the time it still edged forwards - collision course. We all came very close,
less than a boat length, and we had to look up at his bow. All the time we tried to call the fishing boat on the radio to confirm
his intention, but without any luck. They didn't come out and swear at us, and after we'd passed they set off again, so I hope we
understood him correctly (otherwise there is a French trawler out there swearing about American sailors).
[Kyle] At about noon yesterday, against a very strong current, we made a very slow pass about 3 miles off Lands End and the Lizard.
It was kind-a cool to see it from sea since Maryanne and I had visited it from land a couple of weeks before we set off cruising in
2008. When we saw it from land it was in March, on a very windy day, and we clearly remember thinking it was not a nice place to be.
The conditions were much better this time and visibility was such that it appeared as a grey silhouette on a gray background - but
still I could recognize it and it was cool to be back, it really does look like a lizard from sea!
At the midnight watch change Maryanne was experiencing a frustrating lull caused by an approaching storm and had clearly had it with
going back and forth on deck to change sails, once she was asleep after a couple of heavy downpours and a lightening show, the wind
came back up again and we were able to start heading in the right direction again. All was well until the morning rig check (we do
two a day during a passage) revealed a line to be trailing in the water; it turned out one of the screacher sheets had fallen in the
water and had now made a hitch (knot) around the rudder. The line could not be pulled up from either direction; eventually the only
solution was to climb down to the rudder and free it from underwater. I did what I could by timing the waves and using a boat hook
(actually 2, we lost one overboard!!!), but eventually I had no choice but to climb to the bottom step and have a wave soak my best
warm socks.
We have just crossed over to the French side of the channel and are passing through the shipping channel (no ships so far).
Food: Salad for Lunch and a seafood soup/stew concoction for Dinner with bread fresh from the oven (no, I didn't make it, just
purchased those half baked ones - so easy).
Progress: Yesterday we made 99.65nm, So far on this trip we have travelled (through the water) 327.37nm, and have 284nm (routed
line) to go.
Sailing conditions: We continue to find ourselves sailing downwind, and when the wind hasn't been too shifty, we've used the
screacher (our light wind forward sail) and often been wing-on-wing. You can see from our progress though it has been a relatively
slow sail, due to the really light winds.
General Comments: Kyle was concerned about our low battery and ran the engine for an hour overnight, but otherwise it's been
straightforward sailing. The Bristol Chanel is a cut running to the river Severn, that divides Wales and Cornwall, and we are
crossing at its widest point (over 100miles). As soon as we entered we were greeted by a small pod of dolphins; they kept falling
back and racing again to catch up with us (we were obviously too slow for them to have too much fun, so they made us appear faster).
Dolphins so obviously alter course to come and play, they are magical, and it beats a day in the office any time. Kyle went forward
to see them at their best, while I steered and squealed with delight and applauded each time I saw them approach
We've seen very little traffic, but every so often there is a container ship on the horizon, we even saw a tall ship in full sail
off in the distance. The radio is a different matter, we can hear calls from multiple coast guard stations and yesterday was a busy
day with 3 separate life boat calls during just one of my watches, including one ship that reported itself sinking and then lost
radio contact (hopefully that is just due to a lost battery and nothing more serious!). Being on watch in such mild and uneventful
conditions leaves plenty of time to do other things. I've been finally catching up with a book about travelling the French canals by
a couple that have gone before us (thanks to cirrus cat), and repeating my French lessons all while keeping a good eye on the empty
sea. Yesterday I was treated to several hours to a coast guard (or military) exercise between a small ship and a helicopter for
hours as they drifted along practicing something as I sailed at a snails pace in the same direction.
[Kyle]Our non-stop passage to France is deceptively long, looking on the map we can see that we're never very far from land, but in
reality on this passage (except for only a couple of glimpses through the summer haze Ð the tip of Anglesey and St David's head) we
haven't seen land at all after leaving the Ribble. This gives the feel of a much longer ocean passage. The distance we'll be
travelling is equivalent (approximately) from Norfolk to Boston on the East coast of the USA. It seems like it should be shorter
since France is "next door" to England after all, but I guess we didn't plan our passage between the shortest distance between them
(Dover - Calais).
Food: Nothing fancy - Fajitas last night, and leftovers (Breakfast burritos) this morning
Progress: Yesterday we made 74.57nm (yikes, the wind is light!), So far on this trip we have travelled (through the water) 226.44nm,
and have 383nm (routed line) to go. If you've been following on each day, you will have noticed that the numbers don't seem to add
up, this is because we only measure distance through the water and sometimes the tides work with us and against us, also we end up
not travelling exactly on the route we've planned, so a few extra miles are clocked up with that.
Sailing conditions: Still more downwind sailing, but wind is now very light, so after a good push yesterday morning, we needed to
motor in the afternoon, and are now sailing along about a slow amble. The sea has been almost mirror calm at times - certainly not
something we've ever experienced here before!
General Comments: Kyle spotted a dolphin this morning! (It didn't want to play, but just got on with its own life). We are so
glad the weather is cleared up (the sun shine helps) but we are struggling with the tides which of course are half the time against
us. Maryanne had one short bout of seasickness Wednesday morning, but Kyle has been fine, the weather is really too mild to be an
issue. I think we are also settling into our watch schedule, especially important for Kyle who only landed from the USA the day we
set off!
Progress: Yesterday (Wednesday) we made 102.53nm, So far on this trip we have travelled (through the water) 138.88nm, and have 480nm
(routed line) to go.
Food: Last night we had an Indian (ready meal / package); we were supposed to have it the previous night before heading off (always
good to have spicy food to ward off the seasickness... Oops), but I dropped a box of eggs so we had scrambled eggs on toast
instead... Otherwise we've been doing lots of snacking thanks to Dave's graze (a food supply package from a colleague at work) and a
bag of other goodies; we're unlikely to lose weight on the trip.
Weather: Describe weather cool and overcast. Despite summer arriving in the UK, the nights are very cold and we are very grateful
to our enclosure, foul weather gear and hand warmers
Sailing conditions: We've been sailing down wind with the main and screacher until the wind was too much for the screacher - so now
just with the main. With the good winds, we've had a much calmer Irish sea, even now where we are wind against tide, it isn't too
bad (1m high waves)
Progress: Yesterday we made 63.35nm, So far on this trip we have travelled (through the water) 63.35nm, and have 568nm (routed line)
to go.











