Friday, June 22, 2012

Charleston, South Carolina

[Maryanne]After our first sail and first offshore passage with Begonia we spent much of a day at anchor, shared a good meal and a great night's sleep. We raised anchor with just the press of a button, how amazing an electric windlass is! Kyle had originally told me I'd be gifted an electric windlass for my 50th birthday (which has yet to come) - just like his guru Capt'n Fatty gave his wife for her 50th. Oh, my husband is a charmer all right! Luckily for me, Begonia came equipped with an electric windlass and so far Kyle hasn't had the heart to rip it out.


Moving Begonia to the Dock for the weekend

We took it easy and arrived in the nearby City Docks of Charleston for noon. Checked in and spent the remaining day between chores and being tourists. We walked all over town and got a feel for the place, ready to tackle it more methodically on the following day.

With a full day on the Saturday, we armed ourselves with a self-guided walking tour for the day, and a guided tour for the evening.


Old gas lamps add to the charm

Charleston is such a charming town. It's changed its reputation (just like Times Square in NY) from seedy and unsavoury, to quaint and family friendly, and as you walk around it is really hard to imagine there was a time (quite recently) when that might not have been such a safe or pleasant thing to do.



Charm and Fun in Charleston

The weather was fantastic being unseasonably cool (meaning not unbearably hot). The sun shone and the kids played in the public fountains, where kindly the city does not post 'no bathing' signs, but encourages such fun.

Charleston is famed for its Antebellum style where homes and buildings have classic balconies (for the breeze), and design and orientation to catch the breezes and keep the shade as much as possible. Still today (presumably for the quaintness rather than necessity) many of the homes have gas lit welcome lights for the porch.

We found a large park, empty the first day, now covered with stalls of the farmers market. As we wondered around we were tempted by local tourist gifts (Kyle found a keyring and a bracelet he could not leave behind), and freshly prepared food (We partook of the Greek Pita and followed up with freshly made, sweet, hot beignets from a different vendor - oh what bliss!


Farmers Markets and ubiquitous basket stalls.

Another thing Charleston seems famed for is the woven baskets made of sweetgrass or seagrass, and simple but beautiful palmetto roses (crafted from a few leaves from a single Palmetto palm frond) are readily found too. The baskets come in all shapes, sizes and designs, and in the past were traditionally made by African slaves. Now though you can barely afford to look. The smallest basket I found (maybe 1/2" by 3" was $15 (but what could you use it for?), and a small fruit bowl would likely set you back $500)... Wow, that was a memento we would not return to the boat with, despite the obvious skill required to make them.

So we ambled around town, deviating as we were distracted to some new sight, and often being passed by the horse driven coaches showing the sights to tourists not prepared to walk in the heat. Alleys, short cuts between streets, all had character, and may seemed to make you feel you were taking a trail in the jungle and so fun to pass through. We picked one of the many old homes that is open to the public to tour, and stood on balconies where Generals of the Civil war watched battles at sea. So much history for my average brain to recall. Of course there were regular intervals to sample roof top bars or fancy tavern fare.

Eventually we ended our final day with a Grand Mexican meal, followed by a guided walking tour with Mark Jones (part owner of Black Cats Walking Tours, and a more than little away from being Politically Correct!). The point of the tour was to highlight the seedier history of Charleston, where apparently Puritans never settled but plenty a prostitute made a living.

Ah, sweet Charleston. I really enjoyed seeing it. I had to depart early the following day for a flight back to reality, leaving Kyle to keep moving the boat towards her her summer home. In the mean time, I suspect I've used the word charm a few too many times, but just like the vocabulary in this post, Charlston is over flowing with it.


Charleston scenes

Sunday, June 17, 2012

Finding Begonia

[Maryanne]After the loss of Footprint, the winter and spring of 2012 has been spent searching for our next boat. Kyle has expended most of this effort and energy, both in the research and in the actual visits, trials, surveys etc. It’s been frustrating, expensive, and highly disappointing. Of course one Spring is not such a great length of time, and in hindsight it really hasn’t taken so long to find our new partner in adventure, but the process was wearisome and we were never certain it would find a conclusion.

We spent $1000’s, and sacrificed many precious weekends we’d have otherwise spent together, chasing phantoms of boat listings. Most, once seen in person, had little resemblance to their listings, or just weren't right for us once we'd seen the layout. Some had cut-and-paste older listings, neglecting to reflect the many additional years of wear and tear and breakages. One notable other listed as actual installed equipment everything the owner had one day hoped to put aboard. Time and again I arrived after a long an expensive journey to find the actual boat bore little resemblance to its slick advertisement. Another failed at sea trial twice with engine problems. And so it went on and on, as funds and hopes dwindled as one perspective boat after another gradually made the transition from the hoped for end of our shore life to disappointment.

Eventually we found Begonia. For sale by a family with two children, having adventured across the Atlantic and back, and now returning to the USA for traditional schooling and a ‘normal’ life until the next adventure lures them away.

Kyle made contact with the owners while they were in Puerto Rico on their journey back from Africa to the USA. We agreed Kyle would intercept with them in the Bahamas for a few days to check out the boat. With all that had transpired so far with the great boat search, Kyle arrived with a healthy dose of pessimism, but from his first sighting of the boat it became more and more apparent that it was in good condition, well maintained, and well kitted out for our needs. The owners were conscientious, the listing honest, and their welcome warm. As a bonus we found much in common and Kyle especially enjoyed their company on his solo trip to view the boat. An amicable agreement was quickly reached; they would sell the boat for a fair price, in exchange for our taking it off their hands just as soon as they delivered it to the USA. This minimized their storage and listing expenses, and enabled them to plan the next chapter of their lives, and enabled us to start planning ours. (Subject to survey)

Begonia is a 2001 Fountaine-Pajot Athena 38 sailing Catamaran. We toyed with the idea of changing her name, but eventually agreed Begonia was just fine, and we’d stick with it. We also decided to continue our adventures on SV-Footprint.blogspot.com rather than start yet another blog.


Begonia in the Bahamas

[Kyle] I have to admit that ever since we began researching catamarans prior to purchasing Footprint, I have coveted an Athena 38. The high thirties is a good sweet spot between manageability under sail and comfort below. In that range, the Athena has a reputation for being one of the best designs of all time.

Every now and then after a rough passage or in moments of whimsy, Maryanne would ask, “If we won the lottery or some unknown rich great uncle left us loads of money and you could have any boat you wanted, what would it be?” My answer was always a swift, “Athena 38” It was a pure pipe dream. Athenas were always so far out of our price range that we wouldn’t even allow ourselves to consider it a real option. When we bought Footprint, they were selling for at least two Footprints. It might as well have been ten.

Well, between a bad economy and more time for normal depreciation to take effect, owning one became a real possibility for us. Even so, they are in high demand. Owners tend to hang on to them. The handful that are for sale in the world go quickly. We signed a contract in the Bahamas and we wired the deposit the day I got home.

On Monday 11 June 2012, after agreeing weeks before, Begonia was officially ours, the bank account was much reduced, and we were the proud owners of our new home. The survey turned up a few items that needed to be addressed. To those, we had our own list of planned upgrades and improvements. Our insurance company wouldn’t cover tropical storm damage if the boat was south of 31° after the first of July.

Ideally we’d have spent time day sailing and getting to know her, but already we found ourselves on a schedule, and wanting the boat North for the summer, agreed to sail off shore together to Charleston. This meant we arrived at the boat with bags of emergency and foul weather equipment, grocery lists, and to-do lists all with just a few hours to complete before we headed out. Our first time alone aboard the boat would be the 425 nautical mile passage from Fort Lauderdale to Charleston.

The first couple of days were busy. We were adjusting to the new boat at the same time we were adjusting from a normal diurnal sleep pattern to watch keeping. We had a great sail, though. 24 hours after leaving Fort Lauderdale, we were 275 miles away. I spent my whole night-watch watching the boat sail double-digit speeds. We were so pleased. A cold front was predicted to come in near the end of our passage and bring strong headwinds. We could use all of the speed we could get to beat it.

The wind died. We slowed down to normal speeds and then further to a crawl. The headwinds came and increased and we found ourselves having to beat to windward the last 70 miles into Charleston harbor. Those of you that have read the blog for any length of time know that I hate beating to windward. In Footprint, downwind and upwind sailing were two completely different experiences. Downwind was fast and smooth, upwind could be a bashing nightmare. In the Athena, upwind sailing seems to be…well, just sailing. Those last 70 miles had none of the drama to which we were accustomed. They were also smooth, fast sailing; This is due to the Athena’s tremendous bridge deck clearance, which give waves somewhere to go other than pounding the structure. Of course upwind sailing often means you can’t go in exactly the direction you’d like (boats just won’t sail into the wind directly), so we managed a little tacking practice too.

In the end, it took us 2½ days to cover the distance – a day and a half less than planned. We decided to use the extra time by finding a quiet anchorage in which we could quietly readjust to normal sleep patterns and take a moment’s rest from the long boat search to enjoy our new home.


Sunset at sea

We're very happy with our new home, more pictures will follow (eventually)!

Saturday, May 12, 2012

The Hunt for the Next Boat continues...

[Maryanne] Aside from our time being tourists in NY, we’ve primarily spent any spare time we have boat hunting. It’s been a depressing endeavour to date, with plenty of lost weekends, expensive hotel nights and travel, and to date no boat in sight. We thought we were pretty close with one boat in the BVI, but the survey turned up way too many serious and expensive issues that we were not willing to deal with. We won’t bore you with the details here, but suffice to say it has been a frustrating time to date.

It’s been mostly impossible for me to visit many of the boats, they are far afield and require more than my weekend to visit and inspect, so Kyle has been doing the brunt of the search and reconnaissance, and has taken 1000’s of photographs to share with me the nooks and crannies of any potential boat. Despite the fact that he has had to visit some amazing locations to view the boats, he spends most of his time with his head in a locker, and rarely gets to enjoy the location’s more traditional offers.

More recently we looked at a boat closer to home – just a 6 hour drive away - and rented a car for the weekend TOGETHER to go and view it. We quickly decided that this particular boat would not work for us, and found ourselves with a weekend to spare in the beautiful town of Portsmouth, NH. We’d booked into a hotel for the Saturday night expecting to make a full day of inspecting the boat, so by noon we’d switched again into tourist mode and explored the town. We shared beach walks, explored old WWII fortifications, Portsmouth is a classic New England town complete with English Pubs, plenty of cafes to relax in and all on a beautiful sunny weekend. To our surprise it seems all the locals go for a run in the mornings (whatever their age or size) before taking their dog with them to meet friends at the coffee shop and catch up with the goings on. They also had several chocolatiers to sample from. We had such a wonderful time we really didn’t mind that the boat turned out not to be ‘the one’. These things have a habit of working out eventually, and thankfully we have time on our hands.


A weekend by the sea

Wednesday, March 14, 2012

9 Years!!!

[Maryanne]So it came to pass that Kyle and I share another anniversary together. We typically take a weekend get away to reflect and share time together away from day to day life and concerns - and this year Kyle planned an escape to do just that at a wonderful Boutique hotel in quiet Hawley, Pennsylvania.

Kyle does a great job of telling me how wonderful I am (boy do I milk that!), we enjoy time, food and wine, and long walks in beautiful settings while we remember all the adventures and highlights of our time together to date, while planning more to come. Long may it last.



Time for reflection - 9 years of marriage

Monday, March 12, 2012

Getting to Know NYC with Friends and Family


[Maryanne]Oh Boy, it’s been a while since we posted and I finally find time to catch up a little.

Kyle and I have both been busy, what with work, searching for our next boat and general day-to-day chores.  Indeed it was some time before Kyle and I even had matching days off to spend any time together; quite a tough start to the year.  Luckily we’ve had all that broken up with visits from friends and Family, and even a couple of weekends with just the two of us sightseeing and exploring more and more of NY.


Kyle starts a Gurning Contest with another Dummy! While exploring around Times Square

My sister (Sarah) is a schoolteacher and head of science at a secondary school in the UK.  Teachers get 2 weeks off around the Easter break as schools close, and Sarah spent some of that time to bring our Father over to NY to visit and explore.  They came for a week, and I took a day off work so we spent a good 3 days together before I went back to work and left them to explore alone.  And we crammed SO MUCH into those 3 days.  We’d all purchased NY City Passes and were determined to milk them!

·      A sunset boat cruise to view the skyline and the statue of Liberty.
·      The ferry to view the Statue of Liberty up-close, and also soak up the facts and exhibits at the amazing museum on Ellis Island
·       Madame Tussaud’s: that I was not looking forward to – but it was much more fun that I recall from visiting decades ago.  Now-a-days all the exhibits are touchable and you can pose with them – no longer behind barriers or ropes.
·       Grand Central station with audio tour (fantastic);
·       Radio City music hall stage door tour (fantastic, complete with real Rockette to chat to and pose with!);
·       Rockerfeller center tour.  Kyle and I both love hanging out at the Rockerfeller center.  The ice rink was still there until the 22nd April, but the flowers and ‘channel’ area were all beautifully set for Easter (bunnies, eggs, etc.). and we were in the area again for the Easter Day parade where NY finest and all, parade around for the day in fancy (expensive, or crazy) hats and costumes.
·       Bodies Exhibit (loved it – again, great for Kyle to see it, a bit ghoulish for some). 
·      A Right to the top of both the Empire State Building and the Rockerfeller Tower (top of the Rock), and so much more...



Out and About in NY City
Aside from our time in NY City itself, we took our guests to a famous local restaurant (called Valenca) just a few blocks from our house. It is famous for its “steak on a stone” (you cook it yourself at the table), and people come from NY just for this restaurant and dish, we love the Sangria they have there.   

With the remaining week my father and sister visited yet more of NY and have some amazing memories.

Later we had our good friends Kate and Mark from VA visit, and we revisited a few of our favorite places, and also found time to go to the theatre to see Channeling Kevin Spacy – a really well done play that has Kyle still chuckling now.  Unfortunately for the actors it wasn’t so busy, maybe only 20 people in the audience, and that really makes no sense as it was great entertainment.  We also found a nice Italian restaurant in the home of the old and original Improv (comedy club) where so many famous comedians once performed. We took a tour of my new workplace, and relaxed about in the parks and rested up with a trip to the very grand Campbell Apartment (now a bar) in Grand Central Station to sample a drink or two


A leisurely day in NY City with friends. Thanks to Kate for the pictures at the NY Times.

Later Still Kyle and I found we had an unscheduled weekend where we’d both be home (not working) and we made the most of it with Kyle meeting me after work on a Friday evening for a nice meal, a walk in Central Park (full of flowers, and so much beauty), before spending the evening at The Comic Strip Live on upper East side; a very late night for us, but quite wonderful.  On the Sunday we took a trip to Brooklyn with no real plan in mind, and fell in love with the neighborhood, with its brownstone streets, beautiful parks and of course, the famous Bridge.

More local to home we’ve discovered an amazing family run bakery that specializes in delicious and calorie-laden treats!  Mostly Portuguese pastries, all made fresh on the premises, and with hours from 3am – 9pm, pretty much always open (at least any time of day I’d care about!).  I’d avoided it for a while but couldn’t help to notice the long lines (queues) that seem to be constantly out the door – that stuff is GOOD and the locals know it!  They sell coffees and even have outdoor seating so you don’t have to wait to get home to eat up and enjoy.

Sunday, January 22, 2012

All change again. The last few months...

[Kyle] Maryanne and I are finally settled into some semblance of a “normal” life. Since arriving from Italy, we have been bouncing around, dividing our time between the guest rooms of friends and family and an apartment in Elizabeth, NJ shared with our friends Angie and Mauricio.

When we first lost Footprint and came back to the U.S. to start putting our lives back together, our loss gave us the opportunity to make a fresh start almost anywhere of our choosing. Several of our wonderful friends and family made a case for us coming to their neck of the woods to live while we figured out what we would do next. We heard many good arguments, but eventually decided the best solution was to live in Elizabeth. Our friend Angie, who lived at the same marina with us in Portsmouth, VA, and her new husband Mauricio were late into the process of buying a three-unit house as rental property in Elizabeth. One unit was already occupied. They offered us a choice between the other two. Having little in the way of needs and even less in the way of possessions, we chose the smaller, cheaper unit. They would occupy the larger, whose current occupants were planning on leaving at the completion of the sale.

I have to admit that initially, this offer made me groan a bit. Elizabeth was not high on my list of places to live or visit, but it is the location of the Newark Airport, where I am based and it is convenient to Manhattan, which is a good source of unusually high paying jobs for Maryanne.

Maryanne’s arrival in the U.S. followed mine by a couple of weeks. We stayed in hotels near the airport for a few days while we waited for the closing date on the house. Once the date was set, Angie and Mauricio, knowing we needed a place to stay as soon as possible, got permission from the current owner to move into the vacant unit until then in exchange for paying her closing costs. This unit was the one that was to be ours once the transfer was complete. Angie and Mauricio would be staying with us for a couple of days until the sale was finished and the bigger unit became available for them.

Angie and Mauricio, having more stuff, moved into the big room of the apartment. They bought us a bed and set it up in the other room for us. Maryanne and I spent a long day searching in vain for hand-me-down furniture with Mauricio’s truck before we finally gave up and bought a few basics at IKEA. By the end of the day, we at least had a kitchen table with four chairs, a couple of more comfy chairs for lounging, a coffee table and a lamp.

The apartment itself was in a real state. The previous occupant (the second floor guy) hadn’t cleaned it before he left, or likely for several months prior. The electricity and water were on, but the gas was not. We had no heat, cooking gas or hot water. Mauricio disappeared into the basement with a tool bag and we soon had heat and hot water. The gas company told us it would be three weeks for them to come out and begin service. We bought an electric kettle, a toaster oven, and ate out a lot.

The entire building is also in need of major structural and electrical repairs, which Angie and Mauricio plan to begin the minute the building is theirs. This means that absolutely nothing in the place is plumb or square, giving it a certain funhouse feel. The floors at the center of the building are about six inches lower than at the edges. The Toaster oven makes all of the lights go dim.

Our room had no door or blinds. Mauricio tried to install a door he found in the basement, but it didn’t fit, so as an alternative, he installed a plastic accordion partition across the gap. It wasn’t quite as high as the doorway, so we ended up with about four inches between the bottom of the divider and the floor. We now had about as much privacy as an American bathroom stall. No worries, we were resilient and it was only for a couple of days. Then we would move into the big room and the little room would be for our salvaged stuff, still on a ship somewhere between Italy and us.


Kyle enjoys a happy Christmas Traveller at work, while our bedroom door is clearly not up to the task of privacy!

The closing did not go as planned. Three and a half hours before the appointment, the realtor called and said there was a “problem” that had to be dealt with before closing. There would be no closing that day. Once that was cleared up, something else would crop up to slow down the process, putting the closing off for another day and then another day. It seems that buying a house in New Jersey comes with an endless list of “problems”. The current owner got upset that we were living in her building more than the agreed “couple of days” before the closing and started demanding rent in return for not going to the cops and charging us with trespassing.

It has now been almost three months of this and there has still been no sale. When we first moved in, Angie and Mauricio, in anticipation of their impending move to the big apartment downstairs, quickly filled the big room with too much stuff for them to be able to switch rooms with us so that we could have most of “our” apartment. The extra days turned into weeks, and then months. We had just lost our boat, our beloved way of life, our plans for at least the next year and nearly everything we owned and we still didn’t have a private place to call our own.

At the same time, Maryanne’s mother was becoming progressively ill from a chronic lung disease, and was eventually rushed to hospital with breathing difficulties due to a chest infection that added to her struggle. Maryanne visited her mother and family in the UK for a few days, and returned worried. Within the week her mother was out of hospital and being transported home in an ambulance, but inexplicably passed away on that ride home. The whole family was stunned and devastated, and Maryanne spent most of December, including Christmas, back in the UK, relieved that she hadn’t yet started a job, and happy to spend that time with her family.

As the delivery date for our shipment of recovered possessions from Italy approached, we realized there wasn’t enough space left in the apartment to accommodate our salvaged belongings. Angie offered us space in the basement of a friend’s building a few blocks away. I didn’t like the idea. That stuff had made the cut to get aboard the limited space in Footprint to begin with. When she was wrecked, we carried it out, dripping, on our backs on the long walk between the wreck site and our temporary apartment in Agropoli. We then washed and dried it and after I left, Maryanne packed it up for the long ship voyage to America. In the meantime, we have been making do on the carry on bag of clothes each we brought over with us initially. I was really looking forward to a change in outfits. It was our stuff and I wasn’t about to have a separate address from it.

As time went on it became increasingly apparent that nothing was going to be happening soon with the building sale. I started looking for other apartments in the area. I eventually found a nice place a few blocks away. It was bigger, cheaper, had new floors and paint and, best of all, no building sale drama. Angie and Mauricio would be able to spread out properly. The big unit will bring more rent for them once they finally do get the building.

We spent last weekend moving into our new apartment. A couple of days after we had finished bringing our stuff over from Angie and Mauricio’s, our shipment from Italy arrived. We finally had our own place with all of our own possessions in it. It’s the first time that’s happened since we were anchored off the beach in Agropoli three and a half months ago.

It feels strange being here. Although I have stayed in lots of hotels and guest rooms between being at home on the boat, I haven’t been the primary resident of anywhere ashore for over a decade. It’s hard to get used to the idea that this place is ours. I would never think of arbitrarily rearranging the furniture at Mom’s or at Kate and Mark’s to see how it looks a different way, but I can totally do that here. Elizabeth’s still not my favorite place, but I must say, it’s really nice being so close to work. Last night I was home less than an hour after I set the brake on my last flight. That process has taken me up to a day and a half in the past, longer when the weather is bad.


Settling into our new home in Elizabeth, NJ

Maryanne got a job as a contractor for the New York Times at their main office near Times Square. I’m still not really sure what she does there. She can’t explain it to me in less than twenty minutes. It seems to be heavily jargon based. The important thing is that they think they need her and they’re paying her for it. She loves being in the middle of the Big Apple and feels like a tourist as she wanders around during her lunch breaks.

I’ve been occupying most of my free time searching for the next Footprint. We went with Kate and Mark to see a boat near them. It was in okay condition, but I really didn’t like the layout. I made another trip on a different weekend to see a different boat in the same area. It had a beautiful layout, but had clearly been neglected for several years by the most recent owners. We decided the cost of bringing it back into condition would put it out of our budget. I’ve got a couple of other candidates on my short list, but they are a long way away and are going to require a whole weekend to see.

The New York area got its first real snow last night. The neighborhood outside is busy shovelling walks and digging out cars. Maryanne and I are enjoying our first quiet weekend in our own place watching movies while eating delicious bowls of hot soup. We are still dreaming of tropical evenings aboard. I’m sure we’ll get back there as soon as we can. For now, it’s good to have a cosy weekend together, and a place to call home.

Tuesday, November 29, 2011

Moving on..

[Maryanne]Hi Folks, I've had a number of requests for more blog entries! While Kyle and I have been busy since we lost Footprint, very little we've done has been Footprint related. I've decided to start a new blog Sailors Ashore where we will continue to update friends and family until we can sail again!

Update, we soon gave up on that other blog, and now all those blog posts are part of this blog - hopefully that doesn't confuse anyone too much!

I also have yet another blog Cooking on my travels that I might work on now I have time. The name says it all really...

What's Going on?

[Maryanne]Anyone that has followed our blog for the last few years will know that we have been travelling around the Atlantic and Mediterranean for some time. At least that was until our boat Footprint was wrecked on the shores of Italy after dragging anchor in a storm.

We WILL eventually get another boat, we had great insurance that paid out fully (thankfully) and because of that we will heartily recommend both IMIS (the insurance agency) and Jackline (the insurance policy).

We'd been planning to return to the States even before the accident, this just got us 'home' a little quicker than we expected.

Rather than rush into our next boat, and a cruising life again, we've agreed to return to a So Called 'Normal' life and settle back down in the USA. For now we've decided on New Jersey to give Kyle an easy commute. This will be great for him as the last few years has seen some hairy commutes and too many times when he has been unable to come home (to the boat) at all.

I'm looking for work in NJ or Manhatten, and hoping to return to the world of IT.

All this will give us some breathing space to put extra funds in the bank, and take a good long look at what boat we will need/want next, and time to look, purchase, upgrade, and play with our next boat before we set off on our next major adventures in life. We are pretty sure we won't get a Gemini next, and reasonably happy it might be a Catamaran (but maybe not). We have a lot of research to do.

For now we return to a more 'normal' life, with a box in the dirt for a home.

Returning to the USA has given us the chance to visit friends and family, some of which we'd not seen for a couple of years. We've frisby-golfed, ice skated, watched Christmas Parades, gone shopping (for well needed new clothes and prescription glasses), had wonderful meals and time with friends, and so much more already, but we've still to catch up with everyone that we long to see again.

Our first month back in the USA hasn't all been fun. Although it wasn't my fault, I managed to write off a friends car they had kindly loaned me (Sorry Liz). Kyle managed to reverse into a wall (lightly tapping it) and (unbeknown to us at the time) cause quite a bit of damage to yet another friends car (Sorry Angie). I've found out I'm allergic to Christmas trees after I helped friends erect theirs (and had to take a quick trip to the Emergency centre for medication). Oh, and we still don't technically have a home in NJ, although we do have a roof over our heads, it's still not really ours right now (think of us as squatters, but not quite so anarchic). Some good news is that our 14 boxes we shipped from Italy are currently making their way to New York, and are expected to dock on the 13th December. With any luck they'll be processed and out of customs, delivered to our apartment in time for Christmas.

For now, we're back in the real world :-(

If any of our sailing friends wish to have us discuss any topic regarding sailing and living aboard - feel free to request it and we may just get around to penning (blogging?) our knowledge for you to use, laugh at, disagree with, or ignore at will.

Thanks everyone for following along with our travels, we've always been so surprised at the number of people that make time to watch over us, and it feels good to know you are out there.

And thanks too to all our friends and family that continue to provide us with food and shelter along with great company (and who continue to lend us vehicles from time to time). We are VERY LUCKY to have you all and we know it.