Oneata Island (Lau Group, Fiji)

[Kyle]From Komo, we had a close reach in high winds to our next island of Oneata. We anchored as the only boat in a beautiful bay cradled by a long, sandy beach.

White Tailed Tropic birds greet us at the island

Like Namuka, Oneata requires a bit of an expedition to get from the anchorage to the main village (Waigori). In Oneata’s case, it requires a one mile dinghy ride to where the trail to the village begins. From there, it’s a medium-ish walk across the island.

We were met on the beach by Dennis and Christopher; they had been in the middle of loading up bags of coconuts to be taken back with them to Suva for their families. Dennis graciously took us into the village, where we met Tom, the Headman.

Village scenes, the dog is slinking off after being told it could NOT eat the shark

The chief was off island, so there was a bit of a kerfuffle when his next in line, Temo, was located to perform the ceremony. There was much ceremonial clapping and chanting and then we were welcomed to the village. Again, there was no mention of a fee.

We explored the village, making a point of conversing with everyone who invited us over. Oneata is known for their Masi, a cloth made from trees, that is worn as traditional ceremonial garments for weddings, funerals, etc (Masi is known as Tapa in other areas). It’s pounded out into ever wider and wider strips, which is then pounded together to make bigger and bigger sheets. When it’s done, the pattern is applied with stencils and ink. We met several people who happily shared with us their particular stage in the process. Maryanne later commented that everywhere we have been in the Lau has been like visiting a living museum.

Watching the Masi being made was quite the highlight
We are so grateful to all the locals that shared such amazing skills with us.

As we were making our way through the village in the direction of the trail home, Dennis found us and asked us if we wanted to come to a kava circle. Sure!

He took us to Tom’s house where everything had been set up. Temo was also there. They then gave us a really nice demonstration of the process of making the kava as well as a low-key lesson on the ceremony. I feel pretty competent now. When the shell is passed to you, everyone claps once in thanks, toast with a “Bula!”, drink it all in one go (we were given high tide this time), say “Bula, or “Vinaka” (thanks) at the end and then everyone is supposed to clap three times after the shell is handed back. It turns out we were all drinking the very kava Maryanne and I had brought for sevusevu. They informed us that we had inadvertently bought the good stuff, which they called “Vula vula” or “Very white” the whiter the kava, the higher quality (apparently).

Everyone was preparing for the arrival of the passenger ship - making baskets and loading them with fresh produce to send back to relatives on the main island - but it seems there is always time for Kava!

After my third shell, I think I started to feel something other than tingly gums. By my last one, which was my fifth, something was definitely going on. I was aware of a mild sense of contentment setting in.

I think I like kava. It has many of the same effects as alcohol, such as a sense of relaxation and comfort, but it was missing the dizziness, wooziness and inability to form a coherent thought.

We sat for a while, talking to these great guys about anything and everything. What great guys. Tom had gone to all of this trouble to take us in and be nice to us. Same with Dennis, who dropped what he was doing that day to show us around.

We learned that Dennis is a friend of Tom’s who occasionally visits the island to get away from the throngs in Suva. While in the village he works gathering sandalwood to export. He’s also a member of Rootstrada Fiji, which is apparently the biggest reggae band in the Pacific (with cult status in Fiji). Tom and Temo confirmed this. Dennis says it’s hard sometimes to go out in Suva (Fiji's capital) and other big cities because he often gets recognized by fans. He played us some of his stuff. It’s pretty good.

Sunset was approaching again and we needed to get off. I was pleased to find that it was easy to stand up straight and walk without any weaving. I felt perfectly sober for the walk and the dinghy ride home.

Another boat had turned up. It was a catamaran who had arrived just after we went for sevusevu. They were planning on going in the next day for theirs.

Despite the long journey, we went back to the village the next morning. Our intent was to walk the path to see the only other village on the island (Dakuiloa), which was about two miles further on. {Maryanne: There are two villages on the island, the western one is called Waigori, this is where the school is, and where sevusevu is performed. The other village (to the east) is called Dakuiloa, this is the older of the two villages, has its own church, but the two share a chief - so we only need to do sevusevu at the one village and we are then welcome in both.}

On the way, we met Uraia, a man walking with a pole on his shoulders and a bucket hanging from each end. He explained that he was bringing lunch to school for the children.

“Your children?”

“No. ALL the children from my village.”

Ha! I guess lunchtime isn’t long enough for the kids from the other village to run home, so Uraia brings it to them. It was still warm.

We only found half a dozen other people there when we got to Uraia’s village. Most were doing laundry and were happy to have a chat as an excuse for a break. We also met a man named Lazerosa who, upon seeing us, immediately disappeared into the bush. He reemerged with three freshly picked drinking coconuts, which he deftly opened with his machete. We all sat under a tree and had a talk about the virtues of island life versus city life. Lazarosa clearly falls in to the camp of living where food can be plucked from the nearest tree, and having no bills to pay to force you into a job that then traps you into the cycle.

Taking the trail to Dakuiloa and hanging out in that village for few hours

Refreshed, we then returned to the main village to socialize. Again, people would see us and call us over for a gab while they were pottering away at whatever chore they were doing. One thing I kept noticing was that Fijians are quick to break out into loud, belly-busting laughter. Maryanne would say something about being married to the best guy in the whole world and the little old ladies would fall backwards, grab their sides and let out a high laugh that could be heard all across the village.

Kids are ever friendly and curious, while the ladies seem to do most of the work. In these photos there is some preparing and weaving of pandanas leaves, and the making of coconut oil over a small kerosene stove (most people also cook on indoor wood fires too)

{Maryanne: While getting a lesson in making coconut oil, we learned from the local ministers wife that the school had a teaching garden from which we could purchase tomatoes!!! - ohh I've never been so excited about the chance to buy a tomato}

The coast of the Island has some pretty spots making the dingy ride rather pleasant

Again, it was hard to leave these lovely people and head back home to our boat, but there was still more socializing to do. We had been invited to dinner by the other catamaran. Owen and Lian had caught a big yellow-fin tuna the day before and were kind enough to invite us to dinner to share it, we had ceviche and a beautiful marinated bbq steak of the fresh tuna, and there was even a chocolate desert - now that is a meal!

We couldn’t quite place the make of their boat. Owen explained that there weren’t many out there; He had built it himself. We had a lot in common. I had once installed one of the suction cup handrails in our passageway.

Lian had done all kinds of wacky science stuff. Most of it in the jungles of Papua New Guinea and Vanuatu, but she has been all over. Have you ever met one of those astronauts who got their second PhD at nineteen? She was a bit like that.

Anyway, their boat is lovely and looks new, even though it is Begonia’s age. They are great, easy company and we all ended up staying up way later than we had planned before we had even noticed. We left resolved to doing a better job of keeping Begonia waxed. When, I have no idea, but what’s important is that we want to.

We also found time for some snorkelling while we were there