We motored out of the Erie harbor entrance, turned left, set the spinnaker and left it there for the next twenty-four hours until we rounded Point Pelee (the southernmost point of mainland Canada). From there, we switched to working sails for the upwind leg to Leamington, with Point Pelee flattening the seas for us.
Our timing was a bit weird. We left Erie because of the great weather window, but that got us to Leamington two-and-a-half days earlier than we wanted. We considered throwing another stop in, but everywhere we considered would have required a real bash to get to Leamington afterwards. We decided to get there early and have a couple of easy days instead.
When we were anchored, we called the Canadian authorities to report our arrival. Apart from their having a difficult time understanding that we were anchored right outside the Leamington harbor entrance and not forty miles away, they were friendly and efficient. They gave us our entry number and told us to call again once we are tied up at the marina.
After a couple of days at anchor, we moved into the marina next to Arabella
After officially clearinging into Canada, the Babins entertained and spoilt us
Our main reason for clearing into Canada at Leamington was because that's where our boating friends Paul and Lynne Babin keep their boat. In fact, they managed to get us the slip right next to them.
Uh, oh! This was a bit intimidating because of the way we met. When we last saw them in person just over twenty years earlier, we had just taken possession of our new boat, Prydwen, a Tartan 30, which was their old one.
Paul had annoyed me then because we were really broke and try as I might, I could not get him to haggle. He didn't have to. The boat was impeccable. I cursed his name a few more times in the years to come, usually while working on something difficult and hard to access. He didn't design the boat, of course, but how the hell do you remove the engine without scratching the teak?
I suspect Paul didn't. He is the sort of person who, if he scratches the teak, he pulls it all out and redoes it so that it looks better than the original factory job. Who has time for all that? Paul does, because he can do it in a tenth of the time it would take me. Thus, when we finally sold Prydwen, she was a nice boat, but she no longer looked like we had just sailed her over from the factory last weekend.
While we were busy buying and sailing our two catamarans, Paul and Lynne bought two more Tartans, a 34' and then their current 37'. The Tartan factory is right across the lake in Fairport, Ohio. I thought they had finally gone for a new one, but they tell me their boat was a half-sunk wreck in Brooklyn when they found her. They ripped out the interior, built a new one, redid all the systems, gave her some paint. Oh, of course! Now, I bet the Tartan factory wishes they could deliver a new boat so nice. We put a lot of effort into keeping Begonia seaworthy, but the time-consuming cosmetic stuff always seems to fall off the bottom of the list.
Despite the years, we recognized the Babins at once. When they started towards us to say hi, I put up a hand and said, "That's close enough right there! We will come to you."
That only kept them at bay for so long. Soon, they were climbing aboard. They said many nice things, allowing that Begonia is in great shape considering all the sailing she has done.
The Babins kindly offered to take us on any errands we needed to do. Since we had done most of that in Erie, we only needed one or two minor things. The rest of the time, we spent being guided by them on tours of the area, including a walk to Point Pelee, Canada's version of Land's End. On the walking path, we passed the sign marking 42° North. Actually, Canada has two bits of land even further south than that, Pelee Island, the largest in Lake Erie, and even farther away, uninhabited Middle Island, sixteen nautical miles from Point Pelee.
On hearing about our winter haulout plans farther north, The Babins suggested we consider coming all the way down to the Detroit River instead, to the yard they have used for years. The idea made a lot of sense and they even drove us up there to have a look at the place. It's not as fancy as where we were originally planning to go, but then again, it's not as fancy. We'd have to deal with being stored on gravel instead of concrete, but there is also a refreshing lack of additional charges on the price list for every tiny thing.
We visited Point Pelee, and were treated to a drive to many of the lovely towns along the coast - all with great stories and info from Paul and Lynne
The other thing is, and this really surprised us, that the Canadian side of the Detroit River is really nice. I mean, it's right across from actual Detriot, which is, uh…less so. I honestly think the Canadian government poured a little bit of extra money into the area just so that the Americans could see what a prosperous, well-ordered society looks like. Amherstburg is so charming, it seemed like the perfect place to retire to a life of waterfront walks, cozy cafés, and incredible restaurants.
The one thing it will be missing when we return is the Babins. They are heading through the Erie Canal for a winter in the Bahamas, so they will be gone by then. It really was great to see them again. I hope our next reunion doesn't take so long.
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