Monday, July 03, 2023

The Pool, Baie Fine

[Kyle]Our first order of business, now that we were finally here, was to get out of bed whenever we wanted. That wasn’t actually too late. With only three-and-a-half hours of real darkness this time of year at this latitude, daylight squeezed into our berth nice and early. Once we realized the day was imminent, we were too excited about exploring to sleep.

The Pool sits at the head of Baie Fine (pronounced bay fin), a 9nm long fresh water 'fjord'. It looks like a beautiful mountain pond, surrounded by pine trees atop quartzite cliffs. The water was so still that the whole scene reflected off it, doubling the beauty. As we rowed the Pudgy across to the trailhead for Topaz Lake, our wake streamed behind us like two little ribbons, while the oars made a matched set of lingering whirlpools with every stroke. The smoke of the previous day had given way to a crisp, blue sky and the air was filled with the cheery songs of so many birds. Oh, we could get used to this...


We rowed across The Pool, to reach the start of the trail to visit Topaz Lake

All that, of course, ended the moment we left the water’s edge. There are bugs here and they have been waiting in the shade for our arrival. We were prepared for this with long clothing augmented by lots of repellent. This kept most of them away, but we still each got bitten through our shirts. Little monsters.

Topaz Lake is only twenty minutes or so up the trail. It’s very pretty, but it’s hard to see what the appeal is of having a swim there over one at The Pool. I mean, they’re both fresh water and there are no crocs to worry about. Seriously they both look equally beautiful, and The Pool doesn't require the trail up a hill to reach it. I guess that Topaz Lake has the benefit of ultra-safe swimming since you know that no boats will be zipping around.




A short trail soon opened up to the popular Topaz Lake

When we had arrived at the trailhead, it was at the same time as a couple on jet skis. There was also a small runabout that we tied up alongside. At the lake, we were surprised to find between ten and twenty people swimming and splashing around. It was strange. You could stand on the shore and look one way and see a placid, remote mountain lake. Look the other way and it’s Spring Break. We learned that pretty much every lodge in the area shuttles guests in and out all day so they can join the fun. Perhaps it is best they didn’t prefer The Pool after all.

When we got back to Begonia, we still had plenty of daylight left, so we dug out the kayak, inflated it and then had an extensive paddle around the area, gliding under cliffs and over lily pads. I was a little worried when my second paddle stroke hit an uncharted rock right behind Begonia. It then surfaced and gave me a "do you mind?" look. It was actually a turtle. Sorry, buddy.



We kayaked several days during our stay in The Pool - and were quite suprised at how far we could nudge into the inlet between The Pool and Cave Lake. Wherever we went was beautiful with warm water and blue skies adding to the natural setting.

Later, as Maryanne was preparing dinner, I threw a handful of peelings overboard for the fish. After we were done eating, I noticed the turtle hanging around our stern. Maybe he had eaten them. Maryanne sliced up a cucumber and tossed a couple his way. Those were a hit. In no time, he was gently taking the slices out of her hand and letting her brush the algae off his shell. After that, he never strayed far from the boat when we were home. If he wasn’t around, we made sure we set aside all of our plant scraps until he was, which was never long. Before finishing off the last of our grapes, we quartered a few for him. Turtles eat mostly grass, so we weren’t sure if his taste buds could even detect sweet, but after his first taste, he DOVE for those when they started to sink.


But we thoroughly enjoyed visits from the resident turtle, who seemed keen to sample any fruit and veg we had to offer (but especially the fruit). We understand it is a Common Snapping Turtle, called Charlie by the locals

{Maryanne:There are several private cottages around The Pool, and we'd read a fascinating story of Christina Jones: the bear punching septagenarian who has summered here since she could first walk. We kept our eyes peeled but never spotted her, we'd have loved to swing by with some cake, and hear her stories.

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