Tuesday, August 08, 2023

Flowerpot Island (Bruce Peninsula)

[Kyle]After the storm had passed through our Cole Island anchorage, we were lucky enough to get a few hours when the wind was blowing from the northwest. That was good because Maryanne had strongly hinted that she wanted to go to Flowerpot Island and that is the only wind direction that would allow us to anchor there.

The water around Flowerpot is all very deep (about 30 meters), apart from the tiny harbor where the tour boats have a dock and the narrow ledge just outside. We found the ledge and anchored enough to the side to let the tour boats have access to their harbor. Then we rowed in.


We rowed in and Kyle spots (another) green frog that seemed content to sit and pose

Flowerpot is famed for its two main geological features that look more like chalices than flowerpots. They are columns of dolomite that have eroded bases, making them narrower than their tops. The island also has a few miles of trails. Since we were not allowed to make landfall at our last anchorage, we were itching to get our feet on terra-firma; it's the only island of the Fathom Five National Marine Park where we are permitted to go ashore.


We started with the trail we thought would be least frequented - the Marl Bed Trail with its distinctive pond.

We landed the dinghy at the unoccupied campsites about 300 meters from the tour boat landing, then headed out to the remote, western end of the island. We then returned and joined the loop trail that passes over the spine of the island to the lighthouse at the northern tip. From there, it follows the coast back via the flowerpots. We ended up having the entire trail system completely to ourselves.

I'm kidding, of course. Flowerpot's official population is: Everybody that was in Tobermory an hour ago. ALL the boat tours stop here, each disgorging dozens or even hundreds of passengers every twenty minutes. They do this all day long. Most of the tours allow for a few hours ashore before catching a different boat with the same company to continue the trip. As these things go, the closer we got to the ferry dock, the more crowded it got, with the largest contingent all setting up their beach towels (no beach, rocks) and floaty toys within a hundred meters or so of the landing. When we rejoined the campsite trail, it was like we had shut a door behind us. We were suddenly surrounded by quiet, peaceful nature again.


Lighthouse Museum Area (the actual lighhouse is long gone, replaced now with a simple tower beacon - not in photo). The area has lots of nice big chairs (and some picnic tables) to sit and rest, or enjoy the views - it was surprisingly agreeable.



Caves and coastline features from the dolomite geology



And (at last) the 'Flowerpots' - there was at least three at some point, but that is currently down to two, and when you get up close there are a few concrete patches of repair work to help maintain those that remain.

We had planned to stay overnight, but the wind in the lee of the island was fluky, making Begonia sometimes swing in directions we didn't like. Also, the tour boats tended to pass by very close, often in the narrow gap between us and the island. Most of them seemed to make a point of not waiting the ten seconds to clear Begonia before flooring it and throwing huge wakes our way. We knew this would stop when it gets dark, but weren't looking forward to being flipped out of bed in the morning. We decided to move on and anchor at Dunks Bay, just around the corner from the loop at the end of the Bruce Trail that we had walked a few days before.

{Maryanne:Aside from the main route between the main harbour and the lighthouse, the trails are rugged, with plenty of rocky and rooty narrow paths, and a few short scrambles required. The kind of trails you must keep looking at your feet and it is hard to enjoy the scenery - much like the other trails we've done on the Bruce Peninsula. Definately not a flip-flop stroll.}

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