We left just before the passage of a cold front, which allowed us to sail east across the Gulf Stream with wind and seas going in the same direction and from astern.
Following that, strong northerlies arrived. We had intended to use them to reach southeastward, but then a new tropical low appeared in the forecast with predictions of storm-force winds (40 to 60 knots) and associated big seas. Our new plan was to use our current 30 to 40 knot winds to get as far south as possible, so that we would be well clear of the storm's center when it passed.
Departing early from Beaufort, the first few days were a bit rough, but eventually everyting calmed down and warmed up.
At its closest approach, we again ended up with 30 to 40 knots of wind - this time, from the southwest. Instead of beating into it to lay a course for the BVI, we let it push us east as the wind slowly clocked around to the northwest. As the winds died further, we were able run downwind while curving from east to southeast,and then eventually to the southwest in the northeast trade winds.
After a week of being heavily reefed in rough, storm conditions, we finally had three days of pleasant, warm, downwind sailing. It was lovely. We were both well-rested and accustomed to our respective watches, the skies were clear and there were no bugs to harass us. Eventually, the Island of Tortola rose over the horizon, and then things started to get decidedly busy.
Having arrived via a no-go zone for charter boats, once we crossed the line, they were everywhere. It's hard to know if my memory is playing tricks on me, but it seems like there are a lot more of them now than the last time we were here in 2009. One thing that does seem to have changed is the composition of the charter fleet. Gone is almost all of the diversity of types and sizes. Now, the choice is big, really big, or super big catamarans, all from the same manufacturer. All with the same lines in different scale. It's a cornfield of catamarans.
Because it's not on the itineraries handed out by the charter companies, our first anchorage at Spanish Town on Virgin Gorda was shared with two monohulls and a bunch of partially derelict boats the marina had ejected and moored there. Our clearance there was straightforward, and soon we were back aboard to hoist the BVI courtesy flag and get a full night of sleep.
10 days at sea, our longest passage we expect for this year... And then we were there!
Anchorage location >> On google maps
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