Passage to Hout Bay

[Kyle]The forecasts for the next two weeks for our leg between Mossel Bay and Hout Bay included a lot of really strong winds in both directions. Even the tailwinds looked treacherous. Fortunately, before all of that started, there was going to be three to four days of very light winds. After our last two legs, we were rather looking forward to a few slow days in mild seas for a change. If the trip took four days instead of one-and-a-half, that would be fine if we could avoid having to take a beating on the way.

We even started with winds that were just the right direction to allow us to sail out of the harbor, rather than use the engines. We quietly untied our lines from El Marlyn and Begonia was blown sideways into deep water. The gull chick was watching us, but neither of its parents woke up until we started unrolling the jib. By that point, they seemed to decide we were too far away to be a threat. They watched us for a few seconds and then tucked their heads back under their wings. After a couple of easy gybes where we had to help the sail across by walking the clew over, we slid silently through the breakwaters. Then the mainsail went up and we were on our way – at a knot-and-a-half, but at least we were moving.

After leaving Mossel Bay we had dolphins and pretty sunsets to detract from the cold

We tacked our way westward and were lucky enough to arrive at Cape Agulhas in daylight the next afternoon. We had also just tacked away from the coast, so it was right next to us. We crossed twenty degrees east longitude at 17:33, just as we were finishing up our dinner, with the great lighthouse in the background. That is the line that officially separates the Indian Ocean from the Atlantic. Sunrise in the Indian Ocean, Sunset in the Atlantic. Pretty cool. We have sailed over 73,000 miles together since leaving the Atlantic at Gatun Locks in Panamá in 2014.

On the afternoon of day 2 - we passed Cape Agulhas - the southern-most point in Africa and the place where we officially transit from the Indian Ocean and into the Atlantic. We were especially happy to pass in daylight AND in calm conditions

The next day, we were once again fortunate to pass close by the Cape of Good Hope in bright daylight. The terrain around there is just stunning, with high, craggy mountains. We were so glad to be able to actually see it since typically, there would be just as much chance that it would have been dark or we would be too far offshore when we passed.

Passing Cape Point and Cape of Good Hope - also in fine conditions (we were very lucky); from here we can start heading north again. Once we reached Slangkop light we were a little more confident we would arrive before dark at Hout Bay

The wind then picked up just enough for us to be able to sail into Hout Bay at sunset on our third day. Uh, Wow!

Like most others sailing around the southern tip of Africa, our first choice for landfall was at one of the marinas in Cape Town’s city center. That was also the reason everywhere there was booked solid when we inquired months earlier (at least for Catmarans). We finally managed to find a berth in the Hout Bay Yacht Club as a kind of suburban consolation prize. Thus, we were really not expecting too much.

While it is true that the facilities are somewhat dilapidated, with slightly wobbly docks that aren’t all level, giving the place a slightly funhouse quality, Richard, the guy that runs the place, could not be more helpful or welcoming. Plus, and this is a really, really big one, Hout Bay has to be one of the most stunningly beautiful bays we have ever seen anywhere. It reminds me of Baie d’Anaho in the Marquesas or maybe one of the Norwegian Fjords, except that it is perhaps even prettier. We were NOT expecting that. Suddenly, it felt like we got a way better deal than all the boats who went directly to Cape Town. Plus, we actually did get a better deal, since Cape Town proper is almost three times the cost.

Begonia made it to Hout Bay Yacht Club around Sunset - once safely tied up, we opened a bottle of wine to celebrate - a wonderful gift from our friend Merinda

We are so happy to be in this beautiful part of such a beautiful city in a beautiful country with all of the worries about the Indian Ocean crossing, the Mozambique Channel and the rounding of the southern capes behind us. Time for a bit of fun.

Sometime later Kyle climbed the mast to do his usual rig check - the pictures he took give a much better view of the Hout Bay harbour and scenery - we are very happy to be in such a beautiful place. We can see Table Mountain from our boat, we even occassionally get Cape Fur Seals visiting the docks