Allan & Leaf Cays, Exumas

[Kyle]After Thunderball Grotto, we joined a long queue of northwest bound boats for the trip up the protected shallows behind the Exuma chain. Even though it was in slight headwinds and a bit more blustery than forecast, it was pleasant to be able to sail fast on flat water.

At Allan Cay, we dropped anchor in the narrow channel in turquoise water in the middle of the group (Allan, South Allan and Leaf Cays). Allan's is a good stepping off/arrival point for boats crossing from Nassau/Providenciales. They have the a unique inhabitant: the critically endangerd Allen Cays Rock Iguana which are only found on these 3 small islands.

Ashore at Leaf Cay

Begonia and the Rock Iguanas

Like the pigs at Big Major, the iguanas at Allan’s are a (slightly smaller) tourist attraction and they are used to being fed by visitors. We went ashore the next morning on South Allan with a tub full of grapes (Iguanas are herbivores) and were surprised when they all scurried away from us as we approached. We tried again on Leaf Cay and were met by a few that cautiously approached us. Once they figured out we had grapes, we were their new best friend.

It can be a little intimidating when the big ones start charging at you, trying to beat out the others in the grape race. I used to have a regular green iguana of about the same size, so I know their behavior is mostly bluster. They protect themselves by whipping their tails or by biting, but really they want to scare you away to a safe distance before it comes to that. If you stay calm, they tend to not panic and lash out.

The main issue with the rock iguanas is really enthusiasm. They jump and lunge and snap at anything they think might be food. Also their eyesight doesn't seem that great. I got scratched as they scurried up me and a couple of them bit the wrong end of the skewer from which I was passing them the grapes. My lizard of yore had razor-sharp teeth and little hypodermic needles for claws, so I winced when the first one ran up my bare legs and chomped down on my finger, thinking it might be a grape. It seems all the sand in their environment has given them a nice pedicure. Even their teeth didn’t break the skin. That makes them MUCH cuter.

Allan Cay was had jagged rocks all over (thankfully we have a hard dinghy). We did find one small beach to land on but we couldn't get very far from it. There were Iguanas around, but they didn't want any company.

We tried landing on Allan Cay, the third island of the group, but found it to be such an impenetrable mass of sharp, shoe-slicing limestone that we gingerly returned to the dinghy, aware that any slip would likely sever or impale anything held out to break the fall. We returned to Begonia to pick up more food and then headed back to Leaf Cay to see the iguanas again. I think they are much more fun than the pigs at Big Major.

This time, we started with the previous night’s food scraps. They wolfed down the potato and yam peelings and even seemed to like onions and the accidental onion skins that had made their way into the food bag. They were happily munching away until we broke out dessert: more grapes. Then they had about as much interest in the other stuff as I do in a can of sardines covered in marmite. I guess everyone likes dessert.

From a small beach on Leaf Cay there is a trail to the other side of the island with a beautiful beach - we hung out with the iguans there too (our favourite spot). Even without the iguanas, this is a beautiful place to visit