Tuesday, July 01, 2008
Last full day in Maine
[Kyle]As part of my "get up early" routine, I got up even earlier (02:30), went outside and found the boat enshrouded with fog and covered with dew. I came in and made some coffee, sat down at the computer and downloaded the latest weather. Then they came, by the dozens - flying towards the light - a plague like Maryanne experienced in Bangor had found us again. The air was so thick with flying bugs I had to remember to keep my mouth closed and coffee covered. Fortunately these did not seem interested in biting me, but he sound of them buzzing around and hitting the ceiling, made me think it had started raining on a couple of occasions. After a couple of brief (and futile) attempts at zapping them failed, I finally hunkered down and endured it like a chimpanzee in the rain. Eventually daylight arrived and the flies quickly vanished (many found later drowned in the dew on the boat).
Anyway - back to the trip. The weather forecast indicated there was no point in sailing for the first half of the day so we set off under motor in the thickest fog we have so far seen. We heard and saw on the radar several targets that passed within 500' of us, but we never saw them by eye. There was occasional panic swerving to avoid a lobster pot float. We were both disappointed that apart from a half show on our first 1/2 day in Somes Sound, we never really got to see this area of Maine in its full glory. Maine will be Maine. Our route back to Southern Penobscot Bay was via two thoroughfares (passages between islands) - Deer Island and Fox Island Thoroughfares. By the time we arrived at Deer Island Thorofare, after crossing Blue Hill Bay (the first bay of the day to cross) the fog began to clear up and we were treated to a beautiful warm day with clear blue skies as we wove our way through the Deer Islands. The many small islands were smooth hunks of pink granite with tufts of trees atop. Everywhere we looked we were impressed by the beauty. Maryanne actually stopped taking photographs as the beauty was overwhelming and all around.
Also in the thoroughfare was the highest density of lobster pots we had ever experienced; there was no straight course to be steered safely. It was often difficult to find gaps for the boat to pass between pots. Once we got through Deer Island Thorofare, the wind picked up (finally!) and we hoisted our biggest sail for a fast reach across the Penobscot Bay, and on to the Fox Islands Thorofare (where the wind promptly stopped). Here the islands were covered with the same tufts of trees, but the rock base was very different and more rugged (I believe Till). We had originally planed to anchor in the guidebook recommended and very pretty Perry Creek. It really is stunningly pretty, but also filled with private mooring balls and no suitable place remaining to anchor. We changed to plan B - the wide open expanse of Waterman Bay; exposed enough to run our wind generator, but protected enough from any swell. I was glad that our last full day in Maine ended clear and sunny; I was worried we would leave in cold and fog and cast a pall over our impression of the place. One thing about this place though, is that it is so beautiful to begin with, and much of the time you experience it as almost complete sensory deprivation, so when it does clear up and allow you to see its vastness and beauty, it seems so much the sweeter for it.
I will miss Maine's beauty, but there is so much more to see, and it is already time to start heading south to stay ahead of the Winter.
[Maryanne]Wow - out with a blast. Maine really showed us its best side today (along with a morning of fog and dodging lobster boats and floats); we had the full taste of Maine all in a day. Wow again, it is SO BEAUTIFUL. I really did get overwhelmed taking photographs - how many stunning island photographs do you need (of course I doubt the photographs will do the actual view justice, but you feel obliged to try). We managed to enjoy our dinner out in the cockpit - warm, no flies and a great view - what a parting gift. Next stop Boston!